Fish tacos, long a staple of coastal Mexico (and coastal California), have become popular throughout the U.S. I prefer the fish fried, but you can grill or even steam it if you like.

　　

Ingredients

4 servings

　　Eight 5-inch corn tortillas

　　1 to 1 1/2 pounds fillets of firm white fish, like red snapper, sea bass, grouper, or halibut, skinned and boned

　　3 garlic cloves, minced

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

　　1/2 cup cornmeal

　　2 tablespoons pure chile powder, like ancho or New Mexico

　　Corn, grapeseed, or other neutral oil for frying

　　1/2 cup shredded cabbage

　　Lime wedges for serving

　　Salsa Fresca (page 610) or other salsa for serving

　　

Step 1

Put at least 1 inch of water in the bottom of a steamer. When the water simmers, wrap the tortillas in a kitchen towel and set in the steamer. Steam for 3 minutes, then turn off the heat and keep the cover on the steamer while you prepare the fish.

　　

Step 2

Cut the fish into 8 equal pieces. Mix the garlic, salt, pepper, and lime juice together and rub into the fish.

　　

Step 3

Mix the cornmeal and chile powder together. Remove the fish from the marinade and dredge lightly in the cornmeal mixture. Pour 1/8 inch of oil into a large skillet and place over medium-high heat. After a couple of minutes—when a pinch of cornmeal sizzles in the oil—gently lay the fish pieces in the skillet. Fry, turning once, until golden brown and tender (a thin-bladed knife will meet little resistance). Do not overcrowd; work in batches if necessary. Drain on paper towels.

　　

Step 4

Remove the tortillas from the steamer and place a piece of fish in the center of each. Top with shredded cabbage and serve with lime wedges and salsa.

　　

Grilled Fish Tacos

Step 5

Omit the cornmeal. Marinate the fish as directed. Start a charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill or broiler; the fire should be quite hot, the rack 3 or 4 inches from the heat source. Remove the fish from the marinade, drizzle with the oil, and sprinkle with the chile powder. Grill the fish for about 4 minutes, inserting a metal spatula between the fish and the grill every 2 minutes or so to minimize sticking. Turn the fish and grill for another 4 minutes, again making sure the fish doesn’t stick. Check for doneness; the fish will still be firm and juicy but will have lost its translucence, and a thin-bladed knife will pass through it fairly easily. Proceed as directed.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.