Fish stock is a delicate broth, cooked briefly and gently for best flavor. Bones and heads are used for flavor and body. They should be washed and cleaned of gills and organs to make a clear, clean-tasting stock. White-fleshed fish are best; salmon, mackerel, or other oily fish have too strong a flavor. If not buying whole fish, ask your fishmonger for clean heads and bones for making stock.

　　

Ingredients

makes 1 quart

　　1 1/2 to 2 pounds fish bones and heads (gills removed), from white-fleshed fish only

　　1 1/2 cups dry white wine

　　8 cups water

　　Salt

　　1 carrot, peeled and sliced

　　1 medium onion, peeled and sliced

　　1 small celery stalk, sliced, leaves removed

　　1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

　　Parsley stems

　　

Step 1

Rinse and clean: 1 1/2 to 2 pounds fish bones and heads (gills removed), from white-fleshed fish only.

　　

Step 2

Put the bones and heads in a large heavy pot (if necessary, chop them so they fit) with: 1 1/2 cups dry white wine, 8 cups water, Salt.

　　

Step 3

Bring to a boil and turn down immediately to a simmer. Skim any foam that rises to the surface and add: 1 carrot, peeled and sliced, 1 medium onion, peeled and sliced, 1 small celery stalk, sliced, leaves removed, 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns, Parsley stems.

　　

Step 4

Cook, barely simmering, for 45 minutes. Strain, discarding the solids. If not using right away, allow to cool, cover tightly, and refrigerate. Fish stock will keep for a day or two in the refrigerator, but it tastes best the day it is made.

　　

Variations

Step 5

Use red wine instead of white, if appropriate (for a red wine fish stew, for example).

　　

Step 6

Include a tomato or two with the vegetables.

　　The Art of Simple Food