Ingredients

　　

Step 1

Wash fresh fish frames (bones and head, minus gills) from lean white fish such as cod, hake, flounder, halibut, sole. (Do not add dark skin.) Chop into pieces. Bring to the simmer in a large pot with water to cover by 1 inch. Skim off scum for a few minutes, salt lightly, cover loosely, and simmer 30 minutes. Strain. Boil down to concentrate flavor. Cover when cool, and refrigerate for a day or freeze.

　　

Using Canned Broths and Bouillons

Step 2

To disguise your use of the can, simmer the broth for 15 to 20 minutes with a handful of minced carrots, onions, and celery and perhaps a bit of dry white wine or dry white French vermouth.

　　

Step 3

NOTE: I use the terms broth and bouillon interchangeably, whether fresh or canned; stock refers to homemade.

　　

Cooking With or Without Wine

Step 4

For red wine, use a young, full wine such as a zinfandel or a Chianti. White wines should be dry and full-bodied, such as a sauvignon, but because many of the whites are too acid, I prefer to use a dry white French vermouth. In addition to its strength and quality, it keeps nicely. Port, Madeiras, and sherries must be dry. If you do not wish to cook with wine, simply omit it, or add stock or more herbs.

　　Julia's Kitchen WisdomKnopf