Although Turkey is surrounded on three sides by sea, it is not very strong on fish dishes. Seafood has not been part of the old Anatolian cooking traditions. Even in the coastal resorts, where seafood restaurants have mushroomed with the tourist trade, locals are not interested. The exceptions are Izmir and Istanbul, both famous for their fish markets and fish restaurants. The usual fare, like everywhere in the Middle East, is grilled or deep-fried fish. Swordfish kebab is a Turkish specialty, but other countries use other firm-fleshed fish, such as monkfish and tuna.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　1 1/2 pounds swordfish, tuna, or monkfish, cut into 1 1/4-inch cubes

　　Bay leaves (about 20)

　　1 medium onion

　　6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　Juice of 1/2 lemon

　　Salt and pepper

　　1 lemon, cut in wedges, to serve

　　

Step 1

Thread the fish cubes onto wooden or flat metal skewers, alternating with bay leaves. Liquidize the onion in the blender with the oil, lemon, salt, and pepper and marinate the fish on the skewers in this mixture for 20 minutes, leaving it, covered, in the refrigerator.

　　

Step 2

Cook over glowing embers or under the broiler for 4–6 minutes, turning the skewers a few times and brushing with the marinade.

　　

Step 3

Serve with lemon wedges.

　　

Variations

Step 4

Marinate the pieces of fish, then thread them onto skewers with alternating pieces of bay leaf and slices of onion, pepper, and tomato, cut to the same size as the fish.

　　

Step 5

Moroccans cut their fish into smaller cubes. For a Moroccan flavor, marinate in and dress with the chermoula sauce (page 180), omitting the cilantro.

　　

Step 6

For an exciting sweet-and-sour flavor of Syria and Iran, marinate in a tamarind sauce. For this, boil 2 tablespoons tamarind paste with 1/3 cup water, stirring until the tamarind dissolves. Then beat in 3 tablespoons olive oil.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf