“Fumet” is the French term for an aromatic broth (typically fish or vegetable, though it can also refer to a meat stock) that is simmered down to concentrate the flavors. Making your own fish stock is easier than you think and adds irreplaceable flavor to recipes, such as Gulf Coast Bouillabaisse (p. 220) and Southern Shrimp Stew (p. 228). Whatever you don’t use can be frozen in small plastic containers (for up to 2 months), so you can pull it out for quick seafood pasta, risotto, or poaching liquid for a fresh fillet.

Ingredients

　　2 pounds bones from white fish, such as trout, snapper, flounder, or bass

　　2 teaspoons olive oil

　　1 cup chopped onion

　　1/2 cup chopped celery

　　1 cup diced leek (thoroughly washed) and/or fennel trimmings (bulb and feathery tops)

　　1 cup mushroom trimmings, or 6 button mushrooms

　　2 cups dry white wine

　　Bouquet Garni (p. 145) made with bay leaf, thyme, tarragon, parsley stems

　　1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

　　1/4 teaspoon salt

　　Rinse the fish bones under running water to make sure they are free of blood and guts. Heat the olive oil and vegetables in a large pot over medium heat for about 7 minutes, stirring, until softened but not browned, then lay the fish bones on top, cover the pot, and reduce the heat to low. Sweat the bones for about 5 minutes, uncover the pot, and pour the wine over the bones. Add water to come about halfway up the pot (about 2 quarts), then add the Bouquet Garni, peppercorns, and salt. Bring to a boil slowly, then lower the heat and let it simmer for about 20 minutes. Remove the broth from the heat, let it steep about 5 minutes, then strain it through a fine strainer. Let it cool, then put it in small containers and freeze what you don’t use.

　　Cooks' Note

　　An alternative to fish fumet is the strained juice from mussels steamed in white wine with herbs. Or feel free to add a few mussels to the pot with your fish bones for a really rich and tasty fumet.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.