There were two things I couldn’t get enough of in Vietnam: crunchy lemongrass dishes and caramel sauce dishes. Here’s one of the latter, in which the caramel sauce—essentially melted sugar, which becomes oddly bitter while retaining its sticky sweetness as it browns—is used to poach the fish. Make sure you use lots of black pepper, which is one of the characteristic seasonings of Vietnam, and serve this unusual, delicious dish with Basic Long-Grain Rice (page 506). Information on Thai fish sauce (nam pla) is on page 500.

　　

Ingredients

4 servings

　　1 cup sugar

　　1/2 cup nam pla, or to taste

　　1/2 cup sliced shallot

　　1 teaspoon black pepper, or more to taste

　　Fresh lime juice to taste (at least 2 limes)

　　1 1/2 pounds fillets of red snapper, grouper, black sea bass, or catfish

　　Chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Put a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat and add the sugar and a tablespoon or two of water. Cook, occasionally shaking the pan gently, until the sugar liquefies and begins to bubble, about 10 minutes. When the sugar is all liquid, cook for another minute or so, until it darkens; turn off the heat. Mix the nam pla with 1/2 cup water; carefully, and at arm’s length in case the hot caramel spatters, add the liquid and turn the heat to medium high. Cook, stirring constantly, until the caramel melts into the liquid. Add the shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, about 5 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Add the black pepper and some lime juice, then lay the fish in the sauce. If the sauce does not reach at least halfway up the fish, add water as necessary. Simmer until the fish is done, probably less than 10 minutes (a thin-bladed knife inserted into its center will meet little resistance). Taste and add more lime juice or pepper if necessary, then garnish and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.