This soup is common in all of the regions hugging the Adriatic, where fish trimmings of one sort or another are always available to cook into a light, flavorful broth. We had it often when we lived in Istria, whenever someone in the family was not feeling well, for its supposed restorative powers. And although children sometimes disdain “fishy”-tasting food, I recall vividly savoring this broth, which had the taste of the sea but was sweet and elegant too. In those days, we would take the fish heads and tails out of the soup pot and pluck the hidden morsels of whitefish meat off the bones. In the version that follows, you’ll strain the bones out of the broth and briefly cook some meaty (but boneless) trimmings just before serving the soup.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 3 quarts of broth, serving 8 or more

　　3 pounds fish trimmings (such as bones, heads, tails, and belly flaps), from black or striped bass, red snapper, fluke, or other nonoily fish

　　2 large onions (about 1 1/4 pounds), peeled and cut in half

　　1 garlic head, cloves peeled

　　3 or 4 carrots (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut in 4-inch chunks

　　4 big celery stalks (about 12 ounces), trimmed and cut in 4-inch chunks

　　A big handful of fresh Italian parsley stalks with lots of leaves

　　2 tablespoons tomato paste

　　2 tablespoons coarse sea salt or kosher salt, plus more to taste

　　2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns

　　

Recommended Equipment

An 8-quart stockpot with a cover

　　

Step 1

Rinse all the fish trimmings, put them in the stockpot, and add 6 quarts cold water. Set over medium-low flame to heat gradually.

　　

Step 2

Set the onion halves, cut side down, directly on the grate of a stove burner over a medium flame for several minutes, until dark brown. (Alternatively, brown the cut sides in a dry heavy skillet.) Drop the browned onions into the stockpot along with all the other broth ingredients. Cover the pot, leaving it open a crack, and bring the water to a boil. Adjust the heat to keep it bubbling gently, and cook the broth, with the lid set ajar, for 3 hours or so, until the level of the broth has reduced by about one-quarter. If it is not reducing steadily, raise the heat and remove the cover.

　　

Step 3

When the broth is full-flavored, turn off the heat. Strain the broth well through a colander and then a fine-meshed sieve. Press on the solids gently to release broth, and then discard all the fish bones and seasonings. Serve as is or with rice and fish as described on the following page.

　　

Variation: Fish Broth with Rice and Fish

Step 4

1 1/2 to 2 cups Arborio rice

　　

Step 5

About 1/2 pound skinless fish fillet, cut in small pieces

　　

Step 6

1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

　　

Variation: Fish Broth with Rice and Fish

Step 7

Return the preceding fish broth (or as much of it as you want to serve) to the pot, and heat to a simmer. Stir in 1/2 cup of rice for every quart of broth (or more rice for denser consistency) and the pieces of fish fillet. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, until the rice is cooked (but not mushy) and the fish is tender and flakes apart in the broth. Adjust the seasoning to taste, sprinkle on the chopped parsley, and serve very hot, in warm bowls.

　　From Lidia's Italy by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Copyright (c) 2007 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York.