There’s a moment in late May when something in the air shifts. Fava beans and other spring treats are still plentiful and the evenings are still cool, but change is coming. The air at the farmers’ market is suddenly humid with the scent of basil. Small piles of cherry tomatoes, summer squash, and fresh beans show up on the folding tables beside mounds of fresh corn. It’s as if summer is testing the waters, seeing if we’re ready, because it can hardly hold back any longer. Before changing my spring menu to summer, I sample a few beans, checking for crunch. I peel back a cornhusk, bite into the cob—is the corn sweet yet? And finally, I pop a cherry tomato in my mouth to gauge its sugar. If they all pass the test, it’s time to make this First-of-the-Season Succotash Salad, dressed with a simple lemon vinaigrette. After waiting all year, what a joy it is to taste all these sunny flavors on one plate.

　　

Ingredients

1 tablespoon finely diced shallot

　　3 tablespoons lemon juice, plus more to taste

　　1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　3/4 cup diced red onion

　　2 teaspoons thyme leaves

　　2 cups diced summer squash

　　3 cups fresh corn (from about 4 ears)

　　1/2 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half

　　1 cup cooked fresh lima beans (see page 128), well-drained

　　1/4 cup sliced basil, opal and green

　　1 tablespoon sliced parsley

　　1 tablespoon minced chives

　　4 ounces mixed salad of watercress and arugula

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Place the shallot, 3 tablespoons lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a bowl, and let sit 5 minutes. Whisk in 5 tablespoons olive oil, and taste for balance and seasoning.

　　

Step 2

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil, the red onion, and the thyme. Sauté about 1 minute, and then add the squash. Season with 1 teaspoon salt, and cook another 4 minutes or so, until the squash is tender and has a little color. Cool on a platter or baking sheet.

　　

Step 3

Wipe the pan out with paper towels, return it to the stove, and heat over high for 2 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, the corn, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Sauté quickly, tossing often, for about 2 minutes, until the corn is just tender. Cool on a platter or baking sheet.

　　

Step 4

Place the cherry tomatoes in a large salad bowl, and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the squash, corn, and lima beans, and toss with half of the dressing. Taste for seasoning, and adjust with more salt and lemon juice if you like. Gently toss the herbs into the succotash.

　　

Step 5

Toss the watercress and arugula with the remaining dressing, and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Place the greens on a large chilled platter, and arrange the succotash on top.

　　Cooks' Note

　　This pasta needs to be “made to order.” Although you can grind and toast your breadcrumbs, dice your vegetables, and clean the clams ahead of time, most of the work is at the last minute.<br/><br/>To clean the clams, soak them in cold water for 10 minutes, tossing them every few minutes or so. If the clams are very sandy, add a small handful of cornmeal or a splash of milk to the water, to encourage them to spit out the sand.<br/><br/>The pot you choose for this dish needs to be large enough to accommodate the clams and the noodles. If you don’t have one large enough, make this dish in two pots, splitting the ingredients accordingly.

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)