The people of Tuscany are known in Italy as mangiafagioli, or bean eaters, and when I was in Florence as an art history student and then in Lucca as a teacher I learned the reason why. All the trattorie served fagioli all'uccelletto for only a few lire. I was fortunate to find an Italian friend in Arkansas who had a recipe.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 6

　　1 pound dried white beans (Great Northern or navy), picked over

　　3 garlic cloves, minced

　　1/2 cup olive oil

　　a 1-pound can whole peeled tomatoes including juice

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage or 2 teaspoons dried, crumbled

　　

Step 1

In a large saucepan soak beans in enough cold water to cover by 2 inches at least 8 hours or overnight.

　　

Step 2

Drain beans in a colander and return to saucepan with cold water to cover by 2 inches. Simmer beans, covered, until tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Reserve 1 cup cooking liquid and drain beans in colander.

　　

Step 3

In a heavy kettle cook garlic in oil over moderate heat, stirring until softened. Add reserved cooking liquid, beans, tomatoes with juice, sage, and salt and pepper to taste and simmer mixture, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 25 minutes.