Eggplant is everywhere in the Middle East; you see it as often as you do tomatoes. Here are three takes on a creamy, mild dish of eggplant and yogurt. The first relies on the charred flavor you get when you grill or broil eggplant; especially when seasoned this way, it’s really the best. The variations are easier and still very good. As always, small eggplants are best; regardless of size, they should be as firm as you can find.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 pound eggplant, preferably small ones

　　1 medium onion, minced

　　3 garlic cloves, minced

　　1 1/2 cups yogurt, preferably whole-milk

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　Pinch of cayenne

　　1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley or mint leaves

　　

Step 1

Start a charcoal or wood fire or preheat a gas grill (or the broiler); the rack should be no more than 4 inches from the heat source. Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise up to the stem, but do not cut through. Spread about two thirds of the onion and garlic between the eggplant halves and press the halves back together.

　　

Step 2

Grill the eggplants, turning once or twice, until they are blackened and collapsed, 10 to 15 minutes. Don’t worry if the skin burns a bit. Meanwhile, mix the remaining garlic and onion with the yogurt; season to taste with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne.

　　

Step 3

When cooked, let the eggplants cool a bit, then peel off the skins and let cool further. Roughly chop the eggplants, reserving any juices, then mix with the yogurt dressing. Chill if time allows or serve at room temperature; in either case, garnish with the parsley or mint.

　　

Sautéed Eggplant and Yogurt Salad

Step 4

Use half as much onion and garlic. Cut the eggplants into 1-inch cubes, then sprinkle them with salt and put them in a colander; let them drain for at least 20 minutes and up to an hour. Rinse, drain, and pat dry. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and cook the eggplants, stirring occasionally, until almost soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, cool, and mix with the onion, garlic, yogurt, and seasoning. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold.

　　

Roasted Eggplant and Yogurt Salad

Step 5

Cut the eggplants into 1-inch cubes, then sprinkle them with salt and put them in a colander; let them drain for at least 20 minutes and up to an hour. Rinse, drain, and pat dry. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a baking dish and put the eggplant into it. Stir well, cover with foil, and bake for about an hour, stirring once or twice and adding some water if the mixture looks too dry (unlikely but not impossible). Remove from the oven and let cool. Use half as much onion and garlic and mix the eggplant with these, the yogurt, and the seasoning. Garnish and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.