Cut into strips, these sunny yellow sheets add splashes of color and flavor to foods. When thin and delicate like a crepe, they are perfect for mixing into rice and garnishing bun thang noodle soup (page 217). When thick and fluffy, they punctuate boldly flavored foods, such as Beef and Jicama Hand Rolls (page 30) and Headcheese (page 170). Regardless of thickness, egg sheets are made the same way, in a nonstick skillet and flipped over to cook both sides. Here, I have given you directions for preparing thin sheets, which are a little trickier to make. I have included instructions for thick sheets in the Note that follows.

　　

Ingredients

makes 2 or 3 thin egg sheets

　　2 eggs

　　1/2 to 1 teaspoon canola or other neutral oil

　　

Step 1

In a small bowl, beat the eggs until blended.

　　

Step 2

For each egg sheet, heat 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon oil in an 8- or 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat until hot. To test, drop in a tiny bit of egg; it should sizzle on contact. Pour about half of the beaten egg into the pan and swirl to form a thin film in the bottom. Swiftly return any excess egg to the bowl. If the egg doesn’t swirl and adhere to the skillet, the pan isn’t hot enough. If the egg sticks in a thick film and immediately starts to brown, your skillet is too hot. Wait for the pan to heat up or lower the heat. You want the egg to adhere quickly yet cook gently. When the edge of the sheet starts to pull away from the skillet, after about 1 minute, use your index fingers and thumbs to pull up the egg sheet and flip it over. (It is not that hot.) Cook for another 15 seconds to dry the second side. Lift and transfer the egg sheet to a plate to cool. Repeat with the remaining egg, stacking the sheets. The total number of egg sheets you make depends on the skillet size and how thin they are.

　　

Step 3

When the sheets are finished, cut them into whatever size you need. You can save time by preparing the egg sheets several hours in advance and keeping them at room temperature covered with plastic wrap.

　　Cooks' Note

　　To make a thick egg sheet, use the same number of eggs but increase the oil to 2 teaspoons. You need the extra oil to yield a fluffy, thick texture. Pour the oil into the skillet and heat over medium heat until hot. Pour in all of the beaten egg and swirl to cover the pan bottom evenly. When the edge of the sheet begins to pull away from the skillet, flip the sheet over with a spatula (the extra oil and higher heat make the sheet too hot to handle with your fingers). Cook the second side for 15 to 20 seconds, or until it is dry, then transfer to the plate.

　　Reprinted with permission from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Copyright © 2006.  Photographs by Leigh Beisch. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.