Mexico is blessed with one of the largest coastlines in the world, touching two oceans and two seas. Consequently, it has a very rich and diverse seafood culture. One of the centers for great seafood eating, including crab, is the Atlantic port Veracruz. Seafood vendors populate the market, their counters painted in the hottest tropical colors and the marinated catch of the day displayed in huge sundae glasses. Order mariscos of just one type or mix and match—the vendors compete with one another to make bigger cocktails in their own special way. When shopping for fennel, look for ones with tops intact; they add extra freshness to a recipe and a more complete fennel taste. If you cannot find fennel with tops, garnish with one teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon. For extra splash at a more formal party, slices of black truffles (if you want to splurge) or a few drops of truffle oil add elegance.

　　

Ingredients

makes 12 (5 1/2-inch) tacos

　　8 ounces fresh Dungeness lump crabmeat (avoid frozen), picked over for shells

　　2 tablespoons lemon-infused olive oil (page 162)

　　1/2 cup diced fresh fennel (reserve the feathery tops for garnish)

　　1 Roma tomato (about 4 ounces), cut into 1/4-inch dice

　　1 large avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/4-inch dice

　　1 large serrano chile, chopped with seeds

　　1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

　　1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves

　　Pinch of fine sea salt

　　12 (5 1/2-inch) soft yellow corn tortillas (page 13), for serving

　　Garnish: Chopped fennel tops or pickled jalapeño chile rings

　　

Step 1

In a large bowl, mix together all of the ingredients except tortillas and garnish and chill in the refrigerator. Serve within 3 to 4 hours.

　　

Step 2

To serve, lay the tortillas side by side, open face and overlapping on a platter. Divide the filling equally between the tortillas and top with salsa and garnish. Grab, fold, and eat right away. Or build your own taco: lay a tortilla, open face, in one hand. Spoon on some filling, top with salsa and garnish, fold, and eat right away.

　　Tacos by Mark Miller with Benjamin Hargett and Jane Horn. Copyright © 2009 by Mark Miller with Benjamin Hargett and Jane Horn. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.Mark Miller is the acclaimed chef-founder of Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe, New Mexico. He has started and owned thirteen different restaurants on three continents from 1979 to 2008. He is the author of ten books with nearly 1 million copies in print, including Tacos, The Great Chile Book, The Great Salsa Book, and Coyote Cafe. Mark currently works in International Culinary Consulting and lives in Santa Fe, New Mexico.Benjamin Hargett is a travel-loving chef who has cooked in Europe, the Carribean, Mexico, and the United States, where he worked with Mark Miller at the Coyote Café for many years.