Dungeness crabs are caught off the Pacific coast, from the tip of Alaska to as far south as Baja California, during the cold-water months of November to early June. If you’re not on the West Coast or can’t find Dungeness crabs, look for stone, peekytoe, or blue crabs. And if you’re short on time, purchase the crabs already cooked, cracked, and cleaned from a good fishmonger. If you’re feeling less extravagant or can’t get to the fish market, a crabless version of this dish makes a pretty good salad, too.

　　

Ingredients

3 bunches small to medium beets

　　3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　1/2 lemon, for juicing

　　1/4 cup finely diced shallots

　　3 tablespoons seeded, diced jalapeños

　　1/3 cup lime juice, plus a little extra for seasoning

　　1 Reed avocado, or 2 large Hass avocados

　　1 bunch watercress, cleaned, tough stems removed

　　3/4 pound picked-over steamed Dungeness crabmeat

　　1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

　　1/2 cup crème fraîche

　　A healthy pinch of freshly cracked black pepper

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

　　

Step 2

Cut the leaves from the beets, leaving 1 inch of stem still attached. (Save the greens for another dish.) Clean the beets well, and toss them with 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Place the beets in a roasting pan with a splash of water in the bottom. Cover with foil, and roast 30 to 40 minutes, until tender when pierced. (The roasting time will depend on the size and type of beet.) When the beets are done, carefully remove the foil. Let cool, and peel the beets by slipping off the skins with your fingers. Cut the beets into 1/2-inch wedges. Toss them in a medium bowl with 1 tablespoon olive oil, a generous squeeze of lemon juice, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Taste for seasoning.

　　

Step 3

While the beets are in the oven, combine the shallots, jalapeños, lime juice, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl, and let sit 5 minutes. Whisk in 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil. Taste for balance and seasoning.

　　

Step 4

Cut the avocados in half lengthwise, remove the pit, and peel. Cut into 1/4-inch slices, and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and freshly ground black pepper. Fan the avocado slices on one side of a chilled platter. Place the beets on the other side, and arrange the watercress in the center.

　　

Step 5

Toss the crab gently with two-thirds of the jalapeño-lime vinaigrette, the parsley, and the cilantro in a large bowl. Taste the crab, and season with more salt or lime if you like. Pile the crab on the watercress, and top with the crème fraîche. Sprinkle a little cracked black pepper over the crème fraîche, and drizzle a little more vinaigrette over the avocado.

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)