Djaj is the Arabic word for chicken; ferakh is an Egyptian term. Every day, the trams and buses coming into the towns from the villages are crowded with peasants carrying crates of live, cackling poultry. The chickens are killed and plucked at the market or poultry shops. This is a simple and homely but delicious Egyptian way of cooking the birds.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　A 3 1/2–4-pound chicken

　　2 tablespoons mild extra-virgin olive oil

　　Juice of 1/2 lemon

　　Salt and pepper

　　2 cloves garlic, crushed

　　

Step 1

Rub the chicken with a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and garlic. Put it breast side down in a roasting pan in a preheated 350°F oven, so that the fat runs down and prevents the breast from drying out.

　　

Step 2

Roast for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, until well browned, turning the chicken breast side up about midway through. Test for doneness by cutting into a thigh with a pointed knife. The juices should run clear, not pink.

　　

Variations

Step 3

Rub the chicken with a mixture of 2 tablespoons olive or sunflower oil, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon allspice or ground cardamom, salt, and pepper.

　　

Step 4

Add 2 teaspoons ground cumin to the original marinade.

　　

Step 5

Liquidize in a blender or food processor 1 quartered onion, 2 tablespoons olive oil, and 1 tablespoon sumac, and rub the chicken with this mixture.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf