I remember having this condiment someplace in the Balkans, and it has been a summertime staple at my house ever since, especially when small crisp pickling cucumbers are abundant. A couple of hours before we eat, I salt the cuke slices and let them wilt. Just before we sit down, I toss the slices in yogurt with mint from the garden. A spoonful is enough to sauce a portion of fish, but I make it in big batches, because everyone heaps it on their plates as a dinner vegetable. Double the formula here to make a generous side dish serving six.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 2 1/2 cups

　　1 1/4 pounds of small pickling (Kirby) cucumbers, each preferably 4 ounces or smaller

　　1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, or more to taste

　　1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt, cold

　　1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves

　　1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

　　1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

　　

Step 1

Rinse and dry the cucumbers, but don’t peel them. Trim the ends and slice thinly crosswise, 1/8 inch or less. Put all the slices in a bowl, and toss them well with the salt; turn the slices into a colander, and set it over the bowl (or in the sink). Let the cukes wilt and release their juices for at least an hour, but 2 to 3 hours is better; then toss the slices gently once or twice so the liquid drains off.

　　

Step 2

Shortly before serving, pick up a handful of slices and press them between your palms. Don’t crush or break them, but squeeze firmly, to get out as much liquid as you can. Put all the squeezed slices in a bowl, separating them if they’re stuck together; plop the yogurt into the bowl, and fold it into the cukes. Fold and toss in the mint, lemon juice, and olive oil. Taste, and add more salt (or more yogurt, or any of the other seasonings) as needed. Heap into a small bowl for serving.

　　

Step 3

Refrigerate any leftovers—the yogurt may get watery, but the slices will still be tasty, and it will last for 2 or 3 days

　　

Serving Ideas . . .

Step 4

A refreshing complement for grilled and poached fish or chicken.

　　

Step 5

Good with anything spicy, roasted, or grilled.

　　

Step 6

A spoonful will make any sandwich better and juicier.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.