If you’re a home baker who is interested in making crusty French bread, you will be pleased with the results when you bake the bread in a convection oven. Remember it is also important to have steam in the oven. I keep a pan of river rocks on the bottom rack in my oven and preheat them right along with the oven itself. For added crustiness I place a baking stone or unglazed tiles on the center rack in the oven. The tiles help to maintain an even, hot heat and to stabilize the oven temperature. I place the loaves on a dark, noninsulated rimless cookie sheet. Spraying water on the rocks creates a burst of steam essential for creating a crusty crust.

　　

Ingredients

makes 3 loaves

　　2 1/4 teaspoons (1 package) active dry yeast

　　2 teaspoons salt

　　4 cups bread flour

　　

Step 1

In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in 1 1/2 cups warm (105° to 115°F) water. Let stand until the yeast bubbles. Stir in the salt and half the flour. Let stand for 5 minutes, until bubbly.

　　

Step 2

Stir in the rest of the flour a little at a time until a soft dough forms. If necessary, you may need to add more flour, a tablespoon at a time (depending on the climate: in warm, moist conditions, you’ll need a bit more flour; in very dry, arid places, like Minnesota in the winter, you may need to add a bit more water).

　　

Step 3

Cover, and let the dough stand for 15 minutes until it begins to rise.

　　

Step 4

Turn out onto a very lightly floured board and knead until the dough is smooth and feels as if all the lumps of flour are gone.

　　

Step 5

Place in a lightly greased bowl, cover, and let rise until doubled, about an hour.

　　

Step 6

Divide the dough into three parts to make baguettes. Shape each into a long, narrow loaf. Place on a lightly greased, dark, rimless cookie sheet (not one that is insulated), with the smoothest side of the loaf up. Cover and let rise again for 45 minutes, until puffy.

　　

Step 7

Position the oven racks on the very bottom, the center, and the upper center of the oven. Place a rimmed cookie sheet filled with lake or river rocks on the very bottom level. Preheat the oven at 465°F (regular bake) for at least 20 minutes. Center a baking stone or 6 unglazed tiles on the center rack (place the tiles 1 to 2 inches apart for air circulation).

　　

Step 8

When the dough has risen until puffy, slash the loaves with a sharp, serrated knife diagonally across the top in three or four places, about 1/4 inch deep. Reduce the oven temperature to convection bake at 450°F. Using a spray bottle filled with plain water, spritz the loaves generously. Pour 3/4 to 1 cup cool water into the pan of rocks beneath (a sport water bottle works well).

　　

Step 9

Bake on the center rack (on preheated tiles) for 15 minutes, until the loaves are browned and crusty. Remove the bread from the oven and cool on a wire rack.

　　

Alternate Mixing Directions

Step 10

Bread machine: Measure all the ingredients into the container of a bread machine and program the machine for the “dough” setting. When the dough is ready, continue with step 6.

　　

Step 11

Food Processor: Measure the yeast and dry ingredients into the container of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Turn the processor on and slowly add the water through the feed tube; process until the dough is smooth and shiny and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Cover, and let rise until the dough is doubled.

　　

Sheaves of Wheat

Step 12

After rising (step 8), snip the loaves with scissors at a 45-degree angle, pulling each snipped piece outward on opposite sides so that the loaves resemble sheaves of wheat.

　　

Sun-Dried Tomato Baguettes

Step 13

Soak 1/2 cup julienned sun-dried tomatoes in hot water for 10 minutes. Drain well and pat dry. Knead into the dough in step 4. Proceed as directed.

　　

Kalamata Olive Loaf

Step 14

Pit and chop 1/2 cup well-drained Kalamata olives and add to the dough in step 4. Shape the dough into a round loaf and place on a lightly greased, dark, rimless (noninsulated) cookie sheet. Cover and let rise for 45 minutes, until puffy. Preheat the oven as directed in step 7. Before baking, slash the loaf diagonally with a serrated knife or razor blade across the top in three places. Bake at the temperature given in step 8 for 20 to 25 minutes or until crusty and browned. Cool on a wire rack.

　　

Walnut-Fig Loaf

Step 15

Chop 1/2 cup walnuts and 1/2 cup dried figs. Knead into the dough in step 4. Shape the dough into a round loaf and place on a lightly greased, dark, rimless (noninsulated) cookie sheet. Cover and let rise for 45 minutes, until puffy. Preheat the oven as directed in step 7. Before baking, slash the loaf diagonally with a serrated knife or razor blade across the top in three places. Bake at the temperature given in step 8 for 20 to 25 minutes or until crusty and browned. Cool on a wire rack.

　　

crusty rustic loaves

Step 16

There are a few important things involved in getting a crusty baguette or a rustic bread to turn out perfectly:

　　

Step 17

First, the dough—it’s a simple mixture of flour, salt, yeast, and water. It must be moist rather than dry and stiff. I’ve found that I can get beautiful results whether I mix the dough by hand, with a steel blade, in the food processor, or in the bread machine. The trick is to create a dough that is moist enough to form big bubbles inside so that the baked loaf has an open texture. Moistness also contributes to a crunchy, chewy crust.

　　

Step 18

The second important thing is to produce steam in the oven. I do this by preheating a pan of 1-inch rocks on the bottom shelf of the oven. I use a 12 1/2 × 17 1/2-inch rimmed pan filled with river rocks or landscape rocks. To create the steam, I squirt about a cupful of water onto the hot rocks, creating a burst of steam after I place the loaves in the oven.

　　

Step 19

Third, hot air in the convection oven circulates the heat and steam around the baking loaves to create a crunchy crust.

　　

Step 20

Rustic loaves require stabilized high heat. This can be accomplished by preheating tiles in the oven (on a rack in the center) to mimic a brick oven. The tiles help to maintain a high heat. Plain unglazed tiles from a flooring supply store work well. You can also place a baking stone into the oven if you have one. A kit called the “Hearthstone” kit works beautifully but is expensive. Because it is sometimes difficult and messy to transfer loaves directly onto preheated tiles or stones, I simply place the shaped loaves on a dark, noninsulated, rimless cookie sheet to rise and then set the cookie sheet right on the preheated tiles to bake.

　　

Step 21

If you do not have the pan of rocks or tiles, at least be sure to use a dark, noninsulated, rimless cookie sheet for baking the bread and spray the oven and risen loaves with plain water before and during baking. This does not produce as nice a crust as outlined in step 4 but is a good compromise.

　　From Cooking with Convection by Beatrice Ojankangas. Copyright (c) 2005 by Beatrice Ojankangas. Published by Broadway Books.Beatrice Ojakangas has written more than a dozen cookbooks, including Beatrice Ojakangas' Great Holiday Baking Book, Beatrice Ojakangas' Light and Easy Baking, Pot Pies, Quick Breads, Light Desserts, The Finnish Cookbook, and The Great Scandinavian Baking Book. Beatrice works as a consultant for Pillsbury and other major food companies, teaches cooking classes, and writes for various food magazines. She lives in Duluth, Minnesota.