The dough for croissants, Danish, and certain other pastries is made by a method known as lamination, which involves folding layers of dough and butter (or another fat) to create many thin layers that puff when baked. Puff pastry, the classic unyeasted version of this dough, is used to make many pastries. In this book, I’ll stick with a yeasted formula that can be used to make both croissants and Danish pastry. There are many versions of laminated dough and many systems of rolling to create a specific number of layers. The system I’m presenting here certainly isn’t the only one that works, but I like it because it’s easy and also incorporates overnight fermentation to create a superb product. Feel free to modify it if you prefer more or fewer layers. The most common error home bakers make when laminating is to apply too much pressure to the dough, which breaks the paper-thin layers of dough and fat. To help with this, the formula here creates a very soft, pliable dough, and the method calls for a fair amount of dusting with flour to prevent sticking. There are two parts to the final dough: the détrempe and the butter block. The détrempe is the plain dough before the butter is rolled in. The butter block is the fat that will be laminated between layers of dough. There are many ways to incorporate the fat into the détrempe, including spreading it by hand in dabs over the rolled-out dough, which is sometimes called spotting. The method here is more systematic, using a series of letter folds (in thirds) to produce 81 layers of dough and fat—more than enough for a great accordion-style expansion of the layers (one of the recipe testers called it a concertina effect). Should you decide to experiment and try making more layers, just keep in mind that the layers are more vulnerable to rupturing as they get thinner, which defeats the purpose of laminating. I always suggest getting good at 81 layers before adding a fourth letter fold, which will increase the number of layers to 243. You can use either unbleached bread flour or all-purpose flour for the dough. Bread flour provides more structure, while all-purpose flour, being slightly softer, makes a more tender product.

　　

Ingredients

makes 14 to 24 croissants (depending on size)

　　

Détrempe

4 2/3 cups (21 oz / 595 g) unbleached bread or all-purpose flour

　　1 3/4 teaspoons (0.4 oz / 11 g) salt, or 2 1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

　　1/4 cup (2 oz / 56.5 g) sugar

　　1 tablespoon (0.33 oz / 9 g) instant yeast

　　3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (7 oz / 198 g) cold whole or low-fat milk

　　1 cup (8 oz / 227 g) cool water (about 65°F or 18°C)

　　2 tablespoons (1 oz / 28.5 g) unsalted butter, melted or at room temperature

　　

Butter Block

1 1/2 cups (12 oz / 340 g) cold unsalted butter

　　2 tablespoons (0.57 oz / 16 g) unbleached bread or all-purpose flour

　　

Do ahead

Step 1

To make the détrempe, combine the flour, salt, sugar, and yeast in a mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Pour in the milk and water, then add the butter. If using a mixer, use the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest speed for 1 minute. If mixing by hand, use a large spoon and stir for about 1 minute. The dough should be coarse, wet, and shaggy. If it’s very wet, like a batter, add a little more flour. If it’s firm like regular bread dough or stiff, drizzle in a little more water.

　　

Step 2

Resume mixing with the paddle attachment on the lowest speed or by hand for another 30 seconds, then increase the speed to medium-high or mix more vigorously for 10 to 15 seconds. The dough will begin to smooth out but should be very soft, supple, and sticky, but not batterlike. Add more flour or water as needed, but mix only until the dough has formed. It is important that it be very soft and pliable, and somewhat sticky. If it’s dry to the touch, it needs more water.

　　

Step 3

Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and, with floured hands, form it into a ball. Place the dough in a clean, lightly oiled bowl, and immediately refrigerate overnight or for up to 2 days.

　　

On baking day

Step 4

Leave the détrempe in the refrigerator until you’re ready to assemble the laminated dough, and make the butter block just prior to incorporating it into the détrempe. Cut the cold butter into about 16 pieces and put the pieces in a mixing bowl along with the flour. I recommend using a mixer, as it’s so much easier. Use the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest speed for about 1 minute to break down the butter into smaller pieces. Stop the machine and scrape down the bowl and paddle as needed, then mix again until the mixture is no longer lumpy. Increase the speed to medium-high as the butter pieces smooth out, and continue mixing until all of the lumps of butter are gone and you have a smooth paste. (Though it’s harder, you can also do this by hand by squeezing the butter and flour for a few minutes until you have a smooth paste. It should be cool to the touch, not warm. You can also use a food processor, but be sure to use pulses rather than running the processor continuously, or the butter may melt.)

　　

Step 5

Prepare a sheet of parchment paper, waxed paper, or a silicone mat by misting it lightly with spray oil. Use a bowl scraper or spatula to transfer the butter block into a pile in the center of the prepared surface. Mist the top of the butter with spray oil, then cover it with plastic wrap. Press down on the plastic wrap gently but firmly to spread the butter into a 6-inch square (you can also use a rolling pin to lightly tap and roll it into a square). If necessary, lift the plastic wrap and use a metal pastry scraper or bowl scraper to trim off uneven corners or sides, putting the trimmings in the center of the butter block or using them to fill any gaps. The butter block should be about 1/2 inch thick and smooth across the top, with nicely squared-off corners. If the butter block has warmed up or seems to be melting due to friction or hand warmth, place it in the refrigerator for a few minutes (parchment and all).

　　

Step 6

To incorporate the butter block into the détrempe, clear enough space on the work surface to roll out the dough (eventually) to a width of about 32 inches. Make sure the surface is completely dry, then dust it generously with bread flour or all-purpose flour. Transfer the détrempe to the work surface and sprinkle more flour over the top of the dough. Use a rolling pin and, with gentle pressure, roll out the dough to a rectangle about 12 1/2 inches wide and 6 1/2 inches long. Always begin by rolling from the center to the four corners, and then roll to the four sides to even it out. Check under the dough frequently, lifting it with a metal pastry scraper to see if it needs more dusting flour. (In addition to preventing sticking, the flour acts like ball bearings, allowing the dough to extend more easily.) Square off the sides and corners of the rectangle with the pastry scraper. The dough will be about 1/2 inch thick, the same as the butter block.

　　

Step 7

Lift the parchment with the butter block and set it down atop the dough on the left side to check the sizing. The butter should cover only half of the dough, with just a 1/4-inch border on the left, top, and bottom. If it covers more than that, remove the butter block and roll out the dough a little wider or taller, as needed. If there’s more than 1/2 inch of dough around the border, shrink the dough by scooting in the edges with the pastry blade or a sturdy ruler.

　　

Step 8

When the dough and butter are properly matched, remove the plastic wrap and flip the butter block over onto the left half of the dough, again with a border of about 1/4 inch on the left, top, and bottom. Carefully adjust it into place before removing the parchment. You may need to use the pastry scraper to separate the parchment. If any butter sticks to the parchment, scrape it off and apply it to the top of the butter block, as evenly as possible. Lift the right half of the dough and fold it over the butter block to envelop or sandwich the butter. Stretch the dough along the top rim to seal the butter inside by pressing the top rim of dough to the rim of the underside and pinching them together to create a seal. You now have three layers—dough, butter, dough.

　　

Step 9

To laminate the dough, lift the dough, one side at a time, and toss more dusting flour underneath it. If the dough sticks to the work surface, use the pastry scraper to break the contact. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour, then tap the rolling pin over the top of the dough to work out any air bubbles and spread the butter evenly into all four corners. Working from the center to the four corners and then to the four sides, gently roll out the dough into a rectangle, dusting under and on top of the dough with flour as needed. Continue rolling until you have a 1/2-inch-thick rectangle that’s about 16 inches wide and 9 inches long.

　　

Step 10

Square off the sides and the four corners, then fold the dough as if folding a letter: Fold the right one-third of the dough to the left, and as you lay it down, be sure to square it off so that the top and bottom edges are perfectly aligned with the underlying dough. Then fold the left one-third of the dough to the right in the same way. Use the rolling pin to press out any air pockets so that the folds lay flat, then gently transfer the dough to a lightly floured sheet pan and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let the dough rest at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes so the gluten can relax. If the butter seems very soft, you can put the pan in the refrigerator for this resting period.

　　

Step 11

After the resting period, transfer the dough back to the floured work surface with the open seam facing away from you and the closed side facing you. Gently roll out the dough to a rectangle about 16 inches wide by 9 inches long, then once again fold it in thirds. Gently transfer the dough back to the floured sheet pan, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let the dough rest at room temperature (or in the refrigerator if the butter seems very soft) for 20 minutes.

　　

Step 12

After the second resting period, once again transfer the dough to the floured work surface, closed side facing you, and gently roll it out and fold it as before. Gently transfer the dough back to the floured pan, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 20 minutes. You have now completed three “turns” and have created 81 layers of dough and butter.

　　

Step 13

For the final roll-out and shaping, transfer the dough back to the floured work surface and gently roll it out, first from the center to the corners and then out to the sides, until the dough is just under 1/4 inch thick and forms a rectangle 24 to 28 inches wide and 9 inches long. (If you want to make small croissants or chocolate croissants, roll the dough into a rectangle about 32 inches wide and only about 7 inches long.) Be careful not to put too much downward pressure on the dough as you roll it, or the thin layers could break, but you do need to be somewhat firm, yet patient, as you roll. You may have to stop and dust with flour underneath the dough from time to time or give the dough a short rest if it starts to resist or shrink back. Square off the sides and four corners with the pastry scraper or a ruler.

　　

Shaping and baking

Step 14

To make crescent-shaped croissants, begin by cutting out triangles. For full-size croissants, cut triangles about 9 inches long by 4 inches wide at the base. (The 9-inch length of the rolled-out dough will shrink to 8 inches as you cut.) Use a ruler or yardstick to measure and, starting at the left side, place a small notch at 4-inch intervals along the bottom edge of the dough with the pastry scraper or a knife. Repeat this along the top edge, but mark the first interval at 2 inches from the left end, then continue measuring at 4-inch intervals from that point on. For smaller croissants, roll the dough to only 7 inches long, which means it will be much wider, probably closer to 30 to 33 inches, and make the notches at an interval of only 3 inches, instead of 4 inches.

　　

Step 15

Use a pizza cutter or a metal pastry scraper to cut a line from the left bottom corner of the dough to the notch in from the left at the top, then simply connect the marks to cut off the dough triangles. When all of the pieces are cut and separated, cut a 1-inch notch into the bottom center of the triangle base of each piece. Spread the bottom as wide as the notch will allow to create winglike flaps. Start with the flaps and begin rolling up the dough as if it were a rug. Gently pull out the top point (the nose) of the dough as you roll the bottom toward it, but be careful not to squeeze the dough or the layers will break. Stretching the nose will elongate the dough a bit as you roll it up. It should form in either 5 or 7 steps; if you only get 5 steps, you can give the flaps at each end a twist to create another set of steps if you like. Repeat with all of the dough triangles. (If you have any leftover scraps, simply roll them up to make mini croissants or coil them for Danish.)

　　

Step 16

Place the croissants about 1 1/2 inches apart on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper or a silicone mat, with the nose of each one positioned underneath so that it’s anchored. As you pan each croissant, give the end flaps a slight curve inward, facing in the same direction as the nose is pointing, forming a crescent shape. (If you don’t want to bake all of the croissants at this time, place the extra croissants on a pan or in individual freezer bags and chill or freeze them.) Cover loosely with plastic wrap and proof at room temperature for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. The croissants will rise slowly and swell noticeably in size, but they won’t double.

　　

Step 17

About 20 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 450°F (232°C). Applying egg wash (see page 135) is an option at this point; some people like the glossy finish it provides, but I don’t think it’s necessary.

　　

Step 18

Place the croissants in the oven and lower the oven temperature to 375°F (191°C). Bake for 15 minutes, then rotate the pans and bake for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, until the croissants are a rich golden brown on all sides, without any white sections in the visible layers. If they seem to be baking unevenly or are getting too dark and have streaks of light sections, lower the oven temperature to 325°F (162°C) and extend the baking time as needed. The croissants should feel very light when lifted and be flaky on the surface.

　　

Step 19

Allow the croissants to cool for at least 45 minutes before serving; an hour is even better. If served while still hot, they’ll appear to be greasy because the butter hasn’t yet firmed up and been fully absorbed into the pastry.

　　

Variations

Step 20

One of the recipe testers accidentally left her melted butter for the détrempe on the stove too long and it browned. She used it anyway and reported that it added a wonderful flavor to her finished products. So consider using browned butter in your détrempe, but keep a watchful eye on it. Such a small amount of butter can go from brown to black very quickly.

　　

Baking Frozen Croissants

Step 21

To bake frozen croissants, remove the shaped croissants from the freezer at least 3 hours before you plan to bake so they can thaw. Don’t bake them while they’re still frozen or they won’t rise or bake evenly. Once the croissants have thawed, follow the baking instructions in the recipe.

　　"Reprinted with permission from Peter Reinhart's Artisan Breads Every Day: Fast and Easy Recipes for World-Class Breads by Peter Reinhart, copyright © 2009. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc." Photo credit: Leo Gong © 2009Peter Reinhart is a baking instructor and faculty member at Johnson and Wales University in Charlotte, North Carolina. He was the cofounder of Brother Juniper's Bakery in Santa Rosa, California, and is the author of seven books on bread baking, including Crust and Crumb, the 2002 James Beard Cookbook of the Year and IACP Cookbook of the Year, The Bread Baker's Apprentice, and the 2008 James Beard Award-winning Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads.