In Morocco, they make this elegant couscous with small Mediterranean pigeons, but squabs and small poussins will also do.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　6 small squabs or poussins

　　3–4 tablespoons butter or vegetable oil

　　1 pound onions, chopped

　　1 pound pearl or pickling onions, peeled

　　Salt and pepper

　　1/2–1 teaspoon saffron threads

　　1 teaspoon ground ginger

　　1 1/2 cups blanched almonds

　　3/4 cup black or golden raisins (optional)

　　Large bunch of cilantro, chopped

　　

For the Grain

4 cups couscous

　　4 cups warm water

　　1/2–1 teaspoon salt

　　3 tablespoons vegetable oil

　　3 tablespoons butter or extra oil

　　

Step 1

Put the squabs in a very large saucepan with the butter or oil and both the chopped and the pearl or pickling onions (an easy way to peel the pearl or pickling ones is to blanch them first in water, which loosens their skins).

　　

Step 2

Cover with a little more than 2 quarts water. Add salt, pepper, saffron, ginger, almonds, and raisins, and cook, covered, for 45–60 minutes, turning the squabs over, until they are very tender, adding the cilantro towards the end.

　　

Step 3

At the same time, prepare the grain as described in “An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven” (page 376), using the quantities given in the ingredients list above.

　　

Step 4

Before serving, break up any lumps very thoroughly and work in the 3 tablespoons of butter or extra oil. Shape into a mound and arrange the squabs on top. Fish out the onions, almonds, and raisins with a perforated spoon and scatter them around the squabs. Serve the broth separately.

　　

Variation

Step 5

If you like, make a hot sauce to pass around for people to help themselves if they want to: pour 2 ladles of the stock into a bowl, and mix in 1 teaspoon harissa or more to taste (see page 464), or 1 teaspoon paprika and 1/3 teaspoon ground chili pepper.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf