A perfect start to a Chinese meal, this can be prepared almost entirely in advance, varied in a number of ways, and even served as a main course if you like. Though it can be made with peanut butter (the natural kind, please, with no added sugar or fat), it’s easy enough to buy sesame paste (tahini) at health food stores, stores specializing in Middle Eastern or Asian ingredients, and even supermarkets. Sesame oil, which contributes mightily to the flavor of the finished dish, is a staple sold at Asian food stores (and, increasingly, supermarkets) and belongs in every refrigerator. Chinese egg noodles are sold fresh at almost every Chinese market, most Asian supermarkets, and even many ordinary supermarkets. Regular dried pasta makes a good substitute here.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　Salt to taste

　　1 pound cucumber

　　3/4 pound long pasta, such as linguine, or 1 pound fresh Chinese egg noodles

　　2 tablespoons dark sesame oil

　　1/2 cup tahini, peanut butter, or a combination

　　2 tablespoons sugar

　　3 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste

　　1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger, optional

　　1 tablespoon rice or wine vinegar

　　Hot dark sesame oil or Tabasco sauce to taste

　　1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or more to taste

　　At least 1/2 cup minced scallion for garnish

　　

Step 1

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add salt. Peel the cucumber, cut in half, and, using a spoon, scoop out the seeds. Cut the cucumber into shreds (you can use a grater for this) and set aside.

　　

Step 2

When the water comes to a boil, cook the pasta until tender but not mushy. While the pasta is cooking, whisk together the sesame oil, tahini, sugar, soy sauce, ginger, vinegar, hot oil, and pepper in a large bowl. Thin the sauce with hot water so that it is about the consistency of heavy cream; you will need 1/4 to 1/2 cup. Stir in the cucumber. When the pasta is done, drain it and run it under cold water. Drain again.

　　

Step 3

Toss the noodles with the sauce and cucumber. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary (the dish may need salt), then garnish and serve.

　　

Cold Noodles with Sesame Sauce and Chicken

Step 4

This is a fine place to use leftovers of chicken, pork, beef, or seafood, or you can poach some chicken in the same water you use to cook the noodles or just add some fresh tofu. The amount is up to you.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.