Call me boring, but I prefer my sweets on the simpler side, and I drive my pastry chefs crazy with my penchant for, well, plain vanilla. When it comes to custards, I’m a particularly staunch traditionalist. So, when pastry chef Roxana Jullapat told me about her coconut flan, I was skeptical. But its elegant and classic presentation charmed me instantly—a snow white cylindrical custard oozing with golden caramel syrup and surrounded by Elgin Marble apricots simmered in Beaumes de Venise, orange juice, and spices. Roxana’s coconut flan convinced me that there’s life beyond a vanilla pot de crème (which is also delicious! See page 235).

　　

Ingredients

makes 8 servings

　　1 cup granulated sugar

　　One 14-ounce can condensed milk

　　One 12-ounce can evaporated milk

　　1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

　　4 extra-large eggs

　　1 cup dried unsweetened shredded coconut

　　Apricots and Beaumes de Venise (recipe follows)

　　

Apricots and beaumes de venise

1 vanilla bean

　　1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

　　1/2 cup Beaumes de Venise or other sweet white wine, such as Sauternes

　　2 tablespoons granulated sugar

　　2 tablespoons orange-blossom honey

　　1/2 cinnamon stick

　　5 whole cloves

　　9 apricots, pits removed, halved

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

　　

Step 2

Stir together the sugar and 1/4 cup water in a very clean medium-sized saucepan. Over medium heat, bring to a boil without stirring. Continue cooking about 10 minutes, until the sugar caramelizes and becomes a deep golden brown. Immediately remove the pot from the heat and pour about 1 teaspoon of the caramel (being very careful, because it’s very hot) into each of eight ramekins. Swirl the ramekins, to coat the bottom evenly with the caramel. Allow to cool and harden.

　　

Step 3

Pour the condensed milk, evaporated milk, vanilla extract, eggs, and coconut into a blender, and mix at high speed for 30 seconds or so, until incorporated.

　　

Step 4

Pour the mixture into the caramel-coated ramekins—stirring it before you pour, to make sure the coconut is incorporated. Fill each one to about 1/4 inch beneath the rim. Place the ramekins in a large baking dish, and then pour water into the baking dish until it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the whole pan tightly with foil, carefully place it in the oven, and bake about 1 hour. The custard should be just set.

　　

Step 5

When the custards are done, carefully remove the baking dish from the oven (watching that the hot water doesn’t splash into the custards), uncover, and allow to cool in the water bath 15 minutes. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

　　

Step 6

Before serving, run a hot paring knife around the edges and turn each custard onto a plate. Let the caramel ooze over the top. Spoon the apricots and their sauce around the flans.

　　

Apricots and beaumes de venise

Step 7

Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and, using a paring knife, scrape the seeds and pulp into a large saucepan. Add the orange juice, wine, sugar, honey, cinnamon stick, vanilla pod and cloves. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn the heat to medium-low and continue cooking the liquid 5 to 7 minutes, to reduce and thicken it slightly.

　　

Step 8

Turn the heat to low and place the apricot halves in the pan, cut side up. Simmer about 3 minutes, until they just begin to soften. Turn off the heat, and let the apricots cool in the pan of liquid. Keep in mind that the apricots will continue to cook in the warm liquid.

　　

Note

Step 9

If apricots are not in season, serve this with fresh sliced peaches, or with a side of sugar cookies (see pages 66–67).

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)