No self-respecting resident of Louisiana will need this recipe! Everyone in this state has his or her own method (complete with secret ingredients—I know one guy who uses Tang, the powdered orange drink) for boiling shrimp, crab, and crayfish. For outsiders, here’s a brief rundown of the basics. Start with the freshest, sweetest shrimp available. I love to add spicy sausage and potatoes to the pot, but by all means, omit or add what you like (even Tang). The peeling process may throw some people off, but that’s part of the fun. This recipe calls for 2 pounds of shrimp, so you can get a feel for it before you move up to the more common 20-pound party batch. If you can get your hands on some crabs or crayfish, you will need to go a bit stronger on the seasoning and the cooking time, as those hard shells need more spice and more time to absorb the other flavors.

　　

Ingredients

makes 8 to 12 servings

　　2 small bags “crab boil,” or 4 bay leaves

　　1 teaspoon whole allspice

　　10 whole cloves

　　8 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried

　　2 tablespoons coriander seeds

　　2 tablespoons mustard seeds

　　1 teaspoon celery seeds

　　1 tablespoon salt

　　2 lemons, cut in half

　　1 tablespoon cayenne, or as much as you can stand

　　2 garlic bulbs, cut in half horizontally

　　1 onion, quartered

　　1 pound small potatoes, such as red bliss or Yukon gold

　　1 pound andouille sausage, sliced into 8 pieces

　　2 pounds medium or large whole fresh shrimp

　　

Step 1

If you’re not using the commercial crab boil, wrap the seasonings in cheesecloth and use kitchen twine to secure the bundle. Place the spices, 1 gallon water, salt, lemons, cayenne, garlic, onion, and potatoes in a large pot (squeeze the lemons over the water as you throw them in), and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer at least 10–15 minutes, until the potatoes are just about cooked through. Return the heat to boiling and add the sausage and shrimp. Cook for 5–7 more minutes, until the shrimp are cooked through (they will turn bright pink).

　　

Step 2

Drain the pot carefully, to serve hot or at room temperature. Remove the cheesecloth bag and lemons, if desired, and then serve the shrimp, garlic, sausage, and potatoes in a large bowl, or just dump them out on a table covered with newspaper and get peeling! If you are using the shrimp for salad or another recipe, cool it completely, then peel and refrigerate until ready to use.

　　Cooks' Note

　　The easiest way to season boiled shrimp (and/or crabs and crayfish) is with purchased “crab boil” and plenty of salt, which creates the full flavor associated with a spicy boil. My favorite brands are Zatarain’s and Rex, and they are widely available. Crab boil comes in three different forms: liquid, powder, and nifty net bags of whole spices, which is my choice at home. The liquid and powdered varieties tend to have additives, and while some people find them easier to use, I prefer the natural ingredients in the net bags.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.