While most custard is made with eggs and dairy, classic Japanese chawan mushi is made using stock. There’s no real equivalent to chawan mushi. It is a light and deeply savory custard. The egg-to-liquid ratio is 3:1, designed so there is slightly more liquid than the eggs can hold. This way, as you dip the spoon into the custard, it releases some of its juices and creates its own sauce. Here we’ve used fresh clams to make the broth. Its buttery flavor speaks of our American heritage. We’ve garnished the custards with the clams, celery, and jalapeño instead of cooking them inside the custard, as would be traditional; this preserves the texture of the littlenecks. As with all steamed custards, it’s important to keep a close eye on things because the time difference between a smooth, silky custard and a grainy, scrambled mess is less than you might think.

　　

Ingredients

makes 6 individual custards

　　1 fennel bulb, sliced

　　1 medium onion, sliced

　　2 celery ribs, sliced

　　5 large button mushrooms, quartered

　　1 cup/250 grams dry vermouth

　　2 dozen littleneck clams

　　3 large eggs

　　1 tablespoon/20 grams soy sauce

　　1/4 cup/60 grams dry vermouth

　　3 tablespoons/42 grams cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

　　1 jalapeño, seeded and diced

　　1 celery rib, diced

　　Celery leaves

　　

Step 1

In a medium saucepan, combine the fennel, onion, celery, mushrooms, and vermouth. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the clams, increase the heat to medium-high, and cover the pot. Cook for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and check to see how many clams are open. Transfer any open clams to a plate to cool and put the cover back on. Check the clams at 1-minute intervals, removing the cooked clams as they open. Continue to cook until all the clams are open. If after another 5 minutes some clams have not opened, discard them.

　　

Step 2

Strain the contents of the pot through a fine-mesh strainer, reserving the broth for making the chawan mushi. If there is less than 1 1/2 cups (340 grams) of liquid, add water to reach that amount. Remove the clams from their shells and transfer them to the refrigerator.

　　

Step 3

Place a steamer over high heat and bring to a full simmer. Use a fork to lightly blend the eggs and soy sauce in a medium bowl. Stir in the clam broth and then strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer. Some egg particles will be caught in the strainer and can be discarded. Pour 1/2 cup (125 grams) of the base into each of 6 ramekins. Place the ramekins in the steamer and immediately turn the heat down to low. Cook the custards, covered, for 13 minutes, until they are firm to the touch and still jiggle. The custards will be a strange gray color if you open the steamer before they are fully cooked. Remove the custards from the steamer and set them in a warm place to rest while you finish the garnish.

　　

Step 4

Put the vermouth in a small sauté pan set over medium heat, bring to a simmer, and cook until reduced by half. Swirl the butter into the vermouth to thicken it. Add the jalapeño and celery, then gently stir in the steamed clams. Heat the clams and the vegetables until very warm. Spoon 4 clams and some vegetables on top of each chawan mushi. Tear a few celery leaves into pieces and sprinkle them on top of the clams. Serve immediately.

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