The earliest American recipes for chowder called for fish rather than clams or shellfish and were prepared by layering the fish, salt pork, and biscuits (all shipboard staples) in a pot and cooking them for hours over a fire. This recipe calls for canned clams simply because those are the most easily accessible, but you can cook and use fresh clams as well.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　4 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

　　3 cups clam juice, fish or chicken stock (page 91), or water

　　1 small yellow onion, diced

　　1 leek, white and light green parts only, thoroughly washer, thinly sliced

　　2 small inner celery stalks, sliced

　　2 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces, or 1 pound red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

　　1 sprig thyme

　　3 thick-cut bacon slices or pancetta slices

　　3 cups half-and-half or milk

　　3 (6 1/2-ounce) cans clams, coarsely chopped

　　Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

　　

Step 1

Combine 3 tablespoons of butter and the flour in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes, until the butter begins to froth and brown lightly. Slowly add the water or stock, stirring constantly to ensure smooth blending, for about 10 to 15 minutes, until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

　　

Step 2

Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the remaining tablespoon of butter. Add the onion, leek, and celery and sauté for about 5 minutes, until just translucent.

　　

Step 3

Transfer the contents of the pan to the slow cooker and add the potatoes and thyme. Pour in the sauce. Cover and cook on low for about 6 hours, until the potatoes are tender.

　　

Step 4

Place a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook, turning, until crispy. Transfer to paper towels to drain, and then dice.

　　

Step 5

Stir the half-and-half, bacon, and clams into the chowder and continue to cook for 30 minutes, until heated through.

　　

Step 6

Ladle into bowls and serve garnished with the parsley.

　　

VARIATIONS

Step 7

To make a good vegetarian chowder, omit the clams and bacon and add 3 cups of fresh or frozen corn or mixed vegetables.

　　Cooks' Note

　　Suggested Beverage: Hard cider, beer, or ale would be the best, but a crisp Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, or other light-to-medium white wine would also go well.

　　The Gourmet Slow Cooker: Volume II