Calamansi is a limelike citrus from the Philippines with a distinct flavor. It’s sweeter than a lime, but it retains that tartness you expect. For this dessert, I turn calamansi puree into “noodles” by setting it with gelatin and then weave the tangy, slippery noodles in and out of a salad made with blood oranges and clementines.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 on it¿s own or 8 as part of a fourplay

　　

For the Noodles

3/4 cup (210g) Simple Syrup (page 184)

　　4 teaspoons powdered gelatin (or 18g sheet gelatin; see page 276)

　　Grated zest of half a lime

　　2 cups (250g) calamansi puree (see page 276), or 1 cup fresh orange juice, 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, and 1/2 cup fresh lime juice

　　

To Serve

1 thin slice Brioche (see page 194)

　　Olive oil

　　Coarse salt

　　Sugar

　　1 blood orange, segmented (see page 115)

　　2 clementines, segmented (see page 115)

　　Micro red shiso (or thinly sliced fresh red shiso leaves; optional)

　　Black and white sesame seeds, toasted

　　

For the Noodles

Step 1

Rinse a 9 x 12-inch rimmed baking sheet with water and shake off the excess. Line the damp pan neatly with plastic wrap.

　　

Step 2

Put the simple syrup in a glass bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over the surface. Let sit for at least 2 minutes to soften. Microwave for 1 minute or heat gently in a small saucepan until melted. Whisk the gelatin and the zest into the calamansi puree. Pour into the pan and chill until set, about 2 hours.

　　

To Serve

Step 3

Cut the brioche into tiny dice and leave it on the counter for a few hours.

　　

Step 4

Heat the oven to 350°F or 325°F on convection.

　　

Step 5

Toss the brioche with a drizzle of olive oil and some salt and sugar. Spread out on a baking sheet and bake until lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Let cool.

　　

Step 6

Cut the calamansi into thin “noodles” with a sharp paring knife. Pick up a noodle by its end and lower it onto a dessert plate, adding citrus segments as you drape it so the noodle and citrus will be interwoven. Garnish with the shiso, sesame seeds, and brioche croutons. Repeat for each serving.

　　

make it simpler

Step 7

Instead of making noodles, you could pour the noodle base into glasses, let it set there, and then top with fruit and cream. Or combine it with gin for a killer “Jell-O” shot.

　　Reprinted with permission from Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets from a Four-Star Pastry Chef by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved.Johnny Iuzzini,, executive pastry chef of the world-renowned Jean Georges restaurant in New York City, won the award for Outstanding Pastry Chef from the James Beard Foundation in 2006. This is his first book.Roy Finamore, a publishing veteran of more than thirty years, has worked with many bestselling cookbook authors. He is the author of three books: One Potato, Two Potato; Tasty, which won a James Beard Foundation award; and Fish Without a Doubt.__