These classic cookies, known in Italy as baci di dama ("lady's kisses") taste great with espresso. This recipe, by chef Carla Tomasi of the "Tasting Places" cooking course in Tuscany and other regions of Italy, uses hazelnuts instead of the more traditional almonds.

　　Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 2 1/4 hr

　　

Ingredients

Makes 50 to 60 assembled cookies

　　3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted , any loose skins rubbed off in a kitchen towel, and cooled

　　1 cup confectioners sugar

　　1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, well softened

　　1/4 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest

　　1/8 teaspoon salt

　　1 cup cake flour (not self-rising)

　　3 oz fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened; preferably 70% cacao), chopped

　　

Special Equipment

parchment paper

　　

Step 1

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 or 3 baking sheets with parchment paper.

　　

Step 2

Grind nuts with confectioners sugar in a food processor until powdery (be careful not to process to a paste).

　　

Step 3

Beat together butter, zest, salt, and nut mixture in a large bowl with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon until creamy, then add flour, stirring until just incorporated (do not overwork).

　　

Step 4

Roll level 1/2 teaspoons of dough into tiny balls (the size of marbles) and arrange 1 inch apart on baking sheets. Bake, 1 sheet at a time, until very pale golden, 12 to 14 minutes, then slide parchment with cookies onto a rack to cool completely.

　　

Step 5

Melt chocolate in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally, until smooth. Spoon melted chocolate into a small plastic bag and seal bag, forcing out excess air. Snip off 1 bottom corner of bag with scissors to form a small hole.

　　

Step 6

Pipe a small mound (about 1/8 teaspoon) of melted chocolate onto flat sides of 10 cookies, then top with 10 more cookies, pressing flat sides together to help adhere. Repeat procedure with remaining cookies.

　　Cooks' notes:

　　• Cookies can be baked and cooled, but not filled, 1 week ahead and kept in an airtight container at room temperature. • Filled cookies are best eaten the same day, but leftovers keep in an airtight container at room temperature 2 days.