When you live in San Francisco, it’s likely that at least 50 percent of your friends are real estate agents. One of my realtor friends is whippet-thin because he’s always watching what he eats. But he met his match with this frozen dessert. When he isn’t trying to talk me into buying or selling something, he talks about this gelato. People often ask about the difference between ice cream and gelato. As with most things Italian, it depends on whom you ask. But most people agree that gelato has a lower-fat base, which allows the flavors to shine through. This chocolate gelato has no cream and is proof of that theory. As is the waistline of a certain San Francisco realtor. This gelato is inspired by a recipe from Marcella Hazan.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 3 cups (750 ml)

　　5 ounces (140 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

　　1/2 cup (50 g) unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch-process

　　1 cup (250 ml) plus 1 cup (250 ml) whole milk

　　Pinch of salt

　　3/4 cup (150 g) sugar

　　4 large egg yolks

　　

Step 1

Put the chocolate in a large bowl.

　　

Step 2

In a medium saucepan, whisk together the cocoa, 1 cup (250 ml) milk, and the salt. Bring to a full boil, then pour the mixture over the chocolate, scraping the pan clean. Stir until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Set a mesh strainer across the top of the bowl.

　　

Step 3

In the same saucepan, warm the remaining 1 cup (250 ml) milk with the sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

　　

Step 4

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warm milk-sugar mixture, whisking constantly as you pour. Pour the warmed yolks back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof spatula, until the custard is thick enough to coat the spatula. Pour the custard through the mesh strainer into the chocolate mixture and stir until smooth.

　　

Step 5

Set the bowl containing the custard over a larger bowl of ice water. Stir the custard until cool, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

　　

Step 6

Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

　　Ready for Dessert by David Lebovitz. Copyright © 2010 by David Lebovitz. Published by Ten Speed Press. All Rights Reserved.David Lebovitz lived in San Francisco for twenty years before moving to Paris. He baked at several notable restaurants before starting his career as a cookbook author and food writer. He's the author of four highly regarded books on desserts, and has written for many major food magazines, sharing his well-tested recipes written with a soupçon of humor. His popular, award-winning blog, www.davidlebovitz.com, entertains readers from around the world with sweet and savory recipes as he tries to unravel the complexities of living in Paris.