P> The secret to properly cooked Chinese-style rice, whether white or brown, is to first rinse the rice and then to avoid cooking it in too much water. For fried rice, the rice should be cooked until just tender to the bite.

　　

Ingredients

Makes about 10 cups

　　2 3/4 cups long-grain white rice(not converted) or brown rice

　　4 to 5 cups water

　　

Step 1

Put rice in a 3- to 4-quart heavy saucepan and, using your fingers as a rake, rinse under cold running water. Drain rice in a colander.

　　

Step 2

In pan bring water (4 cups for white rice and 5 cups for brown) to a boil with rice. Simmer rice, covered, over moderately low to low heat until steam holes appear on surface and water is absorbed, about 16 minutes for white rice and 35 to 40 minutes for brown. With a fork fluff rice and spread in a shallow baking pan. Cool rice completely. Chill rice, covered with plastic wrap, at least 12 hours. Rice may be made 2 days ahead and chilled in a sealable plastic bag.