This ubiquitous Asian condiment does not need to be purchased. In fact, it has a wonderful, bright flavor when made at home. In the late summer, when chiles are at their peak red color and spicy-fruity flavor, I buy a bunch at the farmers’ market and make a batch or two of this sauce. Keep the sauce uncooked if you enjoy a wild, robust flavor. Or, cook the sauce for a more mellow finish. I often blend different kinds of chiles so as to not create too much of a burn.

　　

Ingredients

makes 2/3 cup

　　6 ounces hot or medium-hot red chiles, such as cayenne, Fresno, habañero, Holland, jalapeño, serrano, or Thai, chopped

　　3 or 4 cloves garlic, chopped (use less for the raw version)

　　1/2 teaspoon salt

　　1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

　　1 1/2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

　　

Step 1

Put the chiles, garlic, salt, sugar, and vinegar in an electric mini-chopper or food processor. Grind to a coarse texture. Take a whiff ; it should make you sweat a bit. Taste and adjust the flavor with extra salt for depth or sugar to mitigate the heat.

　　

Step 2

For an uncooked sauce, simply transfer the sauce to a jar and let it stand for at least 30 minutes to blend the flavors before using. For the cooked version, transfer the chile mixture to a small saucepan. Bring to a vigorous simmer over medium heat, then lower the heat to gently simmer for about 5 minutes, or until the sauce no longer smells raw. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Transfer to a jar. Refrigerated, the sauces keep well for a good 6 months.

　　Reprinted with permission from Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More © 2009 by Andrea Nguyen, Ten Speed Press.Buy the full book from Amazon or from Bookshop.