To balance the sweetness of leeks, we can use a little white wine vinegar, especially tarragon, or lemon juice. The addition of either removes any risk of the dish cloying. The recipe that follows is one of my all-time favorites for a good, easy midweek supper. What especially appeals is that although the sauce tastes rich and almost creamy, it has no butter or cream in it at all.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 4

　　olive oil – 2 tablespoons

　　chicken thighs – 8

　　medium leeks – 4

　　dry vermouth such as Noilly Prat – a glass

　　the juice and zest of a lemon

　　chicken stock – 2 cups (500ml)

　　parsley – a small bunch

　　

Step 1

In a large casserole, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chicken pieces, skin side down, and cook until pale gold in color. Wash the leeks thoroughly, shake them dry, then cut them into pieces the length of a wine cork. Lift the chicken out of the pan and add the leeks. Cover and let them cook gently until they are soft but relatively uncolored. Whatever happens, they should not brown. Once they start to soften, add the vermouth, the zest and juice of the lemon, and the chicken stock. Bring to a boil, return the chicken and its juices to the pan, season with salt and pepper, then cover and simmer for about twenty minutes.

　　

Step 2

Chop the parsley, taste the sauce for seasoning, and stir the parsley in.

　　Tender