The ingredients of this intensely flavored chicken dish resemble those of a curry, but here they are stir-fried, rather than simmered together in a sauce, to retain their individuality. You’ll taste the sweetness of coconut milk and shallots, the heat of chiles (fresh and dried in the curry powder), and the citrus of lemongrass, plus the bell pepper adds color and softness. My mom makes a similar dish using whole skinless drumsticks. She cooks them first on the stove top with very little water so the meat absorbs all the flavors. Then she finishes the drumsticks in the oven, so the outside is dry while the inside stays moist. Her dish, which she regularly prepared for our family when I was growing up, inspired this quicker approach.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes

　　1 1/3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, well trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks

　　1/2 teaspoon salt

　　1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

　　2 1/2 teaspoons Madras curry powder

　　2 1/2 teaspoons fish sauce

　　2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil

　　1 large shallot, finely chopped (about 1/3 cup)

　　1 or 2 Thai or serrano chiles, finely chopped

　　1 stalk lemongrass, trimmed and finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)

　　1 small red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 3/4-inch squares

　　1/2 cup coconut milk, canned or freshly made (page 318)

　　3 or 4 sprigs cilantro, coarsely chopped

　　

Step 1

In a bowl, combine the chicken, salt, sugar, curry powder, and fish sauce and turn several times to coat the chicken evenly. Set aside to marinate at room temperature for at least 15 minutes or for up to 1 hour.

　　

Step 2

In a wok or large skillet, heat the oil over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the shallot, chiles, and lemongrass and stir-fry for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the chicken mixture and the bell pepper, quickly move them around to coat them with the aromatics, and then let the chicken cook, undisturbed, for about 1 minute, or until nicely seared. Using a spatula, flip the chicken pieces over and cook, undisturbed, for about 1 minute, or until nicely seared on the second side.

　　

Step 3

Add the coconut milk, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally to ensure even cooking. As the coconut milk reduces, it will simmer vigorously. The chicken is done when the coconut milk is barely visible; it may have even begun to render some of its oil.

　　

Step 4

Transfer to a serving plate, sprinkle with the cilantro, and serve immediately.

　　Reprinted with permission from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Copyright © 2006.  Photographs by Leigh Beisch. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.