Perhaps because of the thickness of its stalks, or the unruly tangle of leaves on the plate, chard always manages to exude a rustic quality. It is not really a vegetable for “fine dining.” Blanched and seasoned with young, mild garlic and a squeeze of lemon, the stems and leaves become a useful side dish for any big-flavored main course. Allowed to cool, they also work with cold roast meats, thickly torn chunks of mozzarella, wedges of warm savory tarts, or coarse-textured “country” pâté. In other words, a distinctly useful thing to have in the fridge.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 2 as a side dish

　　white-stemmed chard – 1 pound (450g)

　　young garlic cloves – 2 or 3 small ones

　　extra-virgin olive oil – 3 tablespoons

　　a lemon

　　

Step 1

Cut the white stalks from the leaves and keep both separate. Wash them thoroughly in cold water, rubbing any soil off the stalks with your thumb. Rinse both leaves and stems thoroughly.

　　

Step 2

Bring a large pan of water to a boil, salt it, and add the chard stalks. They will take three or four minutes to cook and should still retain some bite, rather than be softly tender (you could steam them if you prefer). Scoop out the stalks and drain them. Return the same water back to a boil and add the leaves. They will need barely two minutes. Take them out when they are tender but still bright green. Pour off the water, wipe the pan, and return it to the heat.

　　

Step 3

Peel the garlic and slice it finely, or chop it if you prefer. Pour the olive oil into the pan and let it warm over low heat. Toss in the garlic and stir it so that it softens without color. Add the drained chard leaves and stalks and gently fold them over in the warm oil and garlic. Grind over a little black pepper and sea salt, then cut the lemon in half and squeeze half over the greens.

　　

Step 4

Serve immediately, with the rest of the lemon on the side.

　　Tender