Celery roots are apt to be large, and with their tough skins, they look forbidding—not a good investment for the single cook, one would think. But when I discovered how roasting thick slices transformed their flavor into something wonderfully earthy and complex, it was a revelation. So now, during the winter months, I often bring home a big celery root. I’ll use about half of it for roasting, and the other half I’ll make into céléri rémoulade, that bistro standby of julienned raw celery root swathed in a mustardy mayonnaise.

　　

Ingredients

1 celery root

　　Light olive oil

　　Kosher salt

　　

Step 1

Cut the celery root in half, and peel off all the skin from the half you are going to use right away. Cut that portion into pieces about 1/3 inch thick. Rub both sides with a little oil, and sprinkle salt over them. Arrange on a baking sheet (or around roasting meat or poultry), and roast in a preheated 375° oven for about 45 minutes, turning them over once.

　　

Celery Rémoulade

Step 2

To simulate the classic céléri rémoulade, peel the remaining half of your celery root, and cut it with a big sharp knife into very thin sticks. Or use a little hand-cranked machine to shred it, or a food processor, using the fine-shredding blade. For about 3 cups celery root, mix together about 1/4 cup mayonnaise (homemade is of course always best, but not necessary), 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, and 2 tablespoons whole-milk yogurt. Toss in the julienned celery root, and mix well with a couple of tablespoons of chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper and a little lemon juice, if you think it needs more acidity. This makes an ample amount so you’ll have some on hand.

　　The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved.Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author of The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food and the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books: The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; and The Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron on The L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed to Vogue, Saveur, and Gourmet magazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.