This is a great dish to bridge the end of winter with the beginning of spring. The bite of the garlic and chile is balanced by the mild flavor of spring’s first onions. Long, oblong, and pretty, spring onions are the first indication to me that fresh garbanzos and nettles are on the way, signaling the end of butternut squash and other winter vegetables. If you can’t find cuttlefish, you may use fresh calamari instead, though the cavatelli is a nice balance for the size and texture of the cuttlefish.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

　　8 ounces cavatelli

　　2 bulbs spring onion, thinly sliced

　　3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

　　1 teaspoon chile flakes

　　1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

　　1 pound cuttlefish, washed, sliced into 1-inch slices, then sliced on the diagonal into thin strips

　　1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

　　Zest of 1/2 Meyer lemon

　　

Step 1

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add the pasta, and cook 1 minute less than the package instructions say, or until al dente.

　　

Step 2

Combine the onions, garlic, chile flakes, and oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook until the onions and garlic are soft but not colored, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cuttlefish—take care that nothing burns or brown—and cook just until cooked through, probably about 1 minute. Add salt and pepper to taste. Drain the pasta and add to the pan, tossing to combine and heat the pasta through. Add the parsley and toss. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle the zest over the top.

　　Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen