For this recipe, it's best to choose a head of cauliflower with a very dense crown so that the "steaks" will hold together during cooking. However, even if they separate a bit, the dish is still delicious.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 side-dish or first-course servings

　　1/2 cup salt-packed capers*

　　5 (1/4-inch-thick) slices pancetta (Italian unsmoked cured bacon; 5 oz), cut into 1/4-inch dice

　　1/2 cup golden raisins

　　3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

　　1 small head cauliflower (1 3/4 pound)

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

　　1/4 teaspoon salt

　　2 pinches of sugar

　　2 tablespoons water

　　8 drained bottled caper berries*, rinsed

　　Garnish: coarse sea salt (preferably sel gris); chopped fresh chives

　　

Special Equipment

2 (12-inch) ovenproof heavy skillets

　　

Step 1

Rinse salt-packed capers in a sieve and transfer to a small bowl. Soak capers in water to cover by 2 inches for 30 minutes. Drain and repeat soaking. Drain again, then rinse and pat dry.

　　

Step 2

While capers soak, put oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat oven to 350°F.

　　

Step 3

Cook pancetta in 1 dry 12-inch skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 10 minutes, then transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Pour off fat and wipe skillet clean.

　　

Step 4

Stir together raisins and lemon juice in a small bowl.

　　

Step 5

Trim cauliflower stalk flush with base of crown, discarding stalk, then trim any leaves. Put cauliflower crown, stalk side down, on a cutting board. Cut a 1-inch slice from 2 opposite sides of crown and discard, then cut crown lengthwise into 4 "steaks," each about 3/4 to 1 inch wide.

　　

Step 6

Heat 1 tablespoon oil, 1 tablespoon butter, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and a pinch each of sugar and pepper in each 12-inch skillet over moderate heat, swirling skillets occasionally, until butter begins to brown. Add 2 cauliflower steaks to each skillet and lightly season with salt and pepper, then cook until undersides are golden, about 4 minutes.

　　

Step 7

Transfer skillets to oven and roast cauliflower, without turning, switching position of skillets halfway through roasting, until cauliflower is just tender and undersides are golden brown, 8 to 15 minutes (depending on thickness).

　　

Step 8

While cauliflower roasts, bring water just to a boil in a 1-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, then stir in pancetta, capers, raisins with lemon juice, and caper berries. Add remaining 1/2 stick butter and stir until incorporated. Remove from heat and season with pepper.

　　

Step 9

Carefully invert cauliflower steaks with a spatula onto a platter and spoon sauce over them.

　　

Step 10

*Available at specialty foods shops and chefshop.com

　　Cooks' note:

　　If your sea salt is very coarse, lightly crush it with a mortar and pestle or with bottom of a heavy skillet.