I love any dish that can be made using water rather than stock. It’s a bit of useful laziness that can help establish the clean, pure flavor of the ingredient itself, whether it’s carrots or clams. One key is a slow, patient approach to cooking (or “sweating”) the onions and garlic, creating sweetness and depth. Homemade curry powder keeps well for a few weeks and warms up deviled eggs, beef stew, or hot buttered popcorn.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 to 8

　　3 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　1 medium onion, thinly sliced

　　2 garlic cloves, sliced

　　2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

　　2 pounds carrots

　　1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons Curry Powder (recipe follows), plus more for garnish

　　Pinch of cayenne

　　1/2 cup dry white wine

　　Thick Greek-style yogurt, for garnish

　　1/2 cup shelled roasted pistachios

　　

Curry Powder

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon coriander seeds

　　1 teaspoon cumin seeds

　　1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

　　1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

　　1 teaspoon black peppercorns

　　2 large dried red chiles, such as de árbol

　　2 tablespoons ground turmeric

　　(makes about 1/2 cup)

　　

Step 1

Melt the butter in a heavy 4-quart pot. Add the onion, garlic, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until the onions are soft and translucent.

　　

Step 2

Meanwhile, peel the carrots and slice them into thin rounds.

　　

Step 3

Raise the heat to medium, and add the curry and cayenne. Stir and cook for 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the carrots, wine, and another 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Cook for 2 minutes, until the wine reduces a little. Add 6 cups water and the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until the carrots are completely tender.

　　

Step 4

Puree in a food processor or with an immersion blender. Add water if the soup seems too thick. Adjust the seasoning and serve in warm bowls. Garnish with yogurt, the pistachios, and a sprinkling of curry powder.

　　

Curry Powder

Step 5

In a small pan over medium heat, toast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds, peppercorns, and chiles, tossing constantly, for about 2 minutes, until fragrant and slightly colored. Let cool completely.

　　

Step 6

Grind the mixture in a spice mill or clean coffee grinder until very fine. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the turmeric.

　　Cooking in the Moment