Carpaccio, now a staple at many high-end restaurants, even non-Italian ones, is a glorified version of this Piemontese specialty (in Tuscany and other parts of central Italy, an even simpler plate of cured meats is served routinely), which will provide a vibrant beginning to any dinner party. This dish depends on the flavor of olive oil, so break out the good stuff. The meat will be easier to cut into small pieces if you put it in the freezer for about half an hour first to firm it up a bit.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 pound beef tenderloin, trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch or smaller cubes, and chilled

　　1 cup arugula, chopped

　　1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

　　1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

　　1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　

Step 1

Toss the beef in a bowl with the arugula, parsley, oil, and lemon juice.

　　

Step 2

Season with salt and pepper, add more lemon juice if necessary, and serve immediately.

　　

Carpaccio

Step 3

For a time, the darling of pricey restaurants: Omit the parsley. Shave about 12 slices of Parmesan with a vegetable peeler. Instead of dicing the beef, slice it as thinly as possible (this will be easiest if you freeze it about halfway to solid first). Place the beef slices on a chilled plate and top with arugula and Parmesan. Drizzle with the olive oil and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.