Most people think of ambrosia salad as a cloud of chunky white fruit in a glass bowl with neatly arranged canned mandarins on top. But we've evolved from those dark ages, and it's high time this salad got a makeover. Ambrosia can be reeeaally delicious, if made with the best, freshest ingredients. If you are even thinking about using dried coconut flakes from a bag, don't bother with this. Sweet fresh coconut meat is what makes it a standout.

　　I don't usually go for aperitifs, but a chilled glass of Lillet is perfect with this salad.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 6–8

　　

For the dressing:

2 1/2 ounces blue cheese

　　3 tablespoons buttermilk

　　3 tablespoons sour cream

　　2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

　　1/4 teaspoon sugar

　　Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

　　

For the salad:

2 oranges, cut into suprêmes

　　1 grapefruit, cut into suprêmes

　　2 Champagne mangoes, peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced

　　2 Anjou pears, cored and thinly sliced

　　1/2 cup shredded fresh coconut

　　3 ounces pitted dates, coarsely chopped, plus more for garnish

　　1/4 cup slivered almonds

　　3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

　　2 teaspoons coconut water

　　Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

　　

Make the dressing:

Step 1

Mash the cheese in a small bowl with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients and whisk until combined but still a bit lumpy.

　　

Make the salad:

Step 2

Combine the orange, grapefruit, mango, and pear slices in a medium bowl. Add the shredded coconut, dates, and almonds, then sprinkle with the cardamom, add the coconut water, and thoroughly toss the salad. Add the dressing and toss together.

　　

Step 3

Divided the salad among individual bowls or serve it in a large bowl for a family-style dinner. Garnish with more chopped dates and some parsley, if desired.

　　Cooks' Note

　　To make citrus suprêmes, using a sharp knife, cut off the top and bottom of the fruit. Cut away the rind and white pith in wide strips from top to bottom, following the shape of the fruit. Working over a bowl, use paring knife to cut between the membranes to release the wedges of skinless fruit.

　　To prepare fresh coconut, start with a 2-pound coconut. Holding it firmly in one hand over a large bowl, use the back of a butcher knife to rap the coconut following the grain. When the shell cracks, catch the coconut water in the bowl. Drain the juice and reserve. Using a spoon, scrape out the coconut flesh. Grate on the larges holes of a box grater. Freeze what you don't need in a resealable plastic bag; it will keep for weeks in the freezer.

　　Reprinted from Smoke & Pickles: Recipes and Stories from a New Southern Kitchen, by Edward Lee, copyright 2014. Excerpted by permission of Artisan, a division of Workman Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher. Photos by Grant Cornett.