One of my great pleasures in life is stopping at one of the “shave ice” stands (as the locals call them, inexplicably dropping the “d”) in Hawaii. I watch as they tuck sweet red beans in the bottom of a paper cone and then pile on the shaved ice. I always choose lilikoi, or passion fruit syrup, to be drizzled over the ice. It has remarkable complexity and tastes as if every possible tropical flavor has been packed together into one intensely flavored fruit. Then a shot of sweet milk is poured over it all. I slurp the whole thing down, then I’m ready to tackle the surf again. Or, more likely, just take a snooze under the shade of a palm tree. The inspiration likely came from Japan, where red beans are spooned over ice cream or puréed for beautifully intricate pastries called wagashi. You can easily make them at home from adzuki beans, available in well-stocked supermarkets and natural food stores. Their sweet-starchy flavor is justifiably popular and is especially good paired with Asian-inspired ice creams, like Green Tea Ice Cream (page 40) and Toasted Coconut Ice Cream (page 96). I find chewing on these sticky little beans positively addictive.

　　

Ingredients

makes 1 1/2 cups (550 g)

　　1/2 cup (100 g) dried adzuki beans, rinsed

　　4 cups (1 liter) water

　　Pinch of baking soda

　　1/2 cup (100 g) sugar

　　1/2 cup (125 ml) light corn syrup

　　

Step 1

Sort the beans and discard any foreign matter, then rinse them in a colander. Put them in a large saucepan and cover with plenty of water. Soak for at least 4 hours, or overnight.

　　

Step 2

Drain the beans in a colander, then return them to the saucepan and add the 4 cups (1 liter) water and the baking soda. Bring the beans to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour. (If the water boils away too quickly, add another 1/2 cup (125 ml) to keep the beans submerged.)

　　

Step 3

When the beans are cooked through, add the sugar and corn syrup. Continue to cook the beans, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes, until the liquid is thick and syrupy. Serve warm or at room temperature.

　　

Storage

Step 4

These beans will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

　　The Perfect Scoop