I think aromatic kumquats walk a line between oranges and lemons, and they aren’t bitter at all when you cook them properly. You could chop these up and bake them in a sponge cake, or fold them into a mousse that could use a shot of acidity. Fill them with soft cheese or mousse and put them out after dinner as petits fours. Or just serve with ice cream.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 2 cups

　　1 pint kumquats

　　2 cups Simple Syrup (page 184)

　　2 tablespoons (34g) light corn syrup

　　

Step 1

Cut the kumquats in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds with a melon baller or small spoon and discard.

　　

Step 2

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the kumquats, bring back to a boil, and drain. Repeat this blanching process two more times.

　　

Step 3

Put the simple syrup and corn syrup in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the kumquats and bring back to a simmer. Reduce the heat and poach the kumquats gently until they’re slightly translucent, about 25 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Let cool in the syrup. Store covered in syrup in a glass jar in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.

　　Reprinted with permission from Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets from a Four-Star Pastry Chef by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved.Johnny Iuzzini,, executive pastry chef of the world-renowned Jean Georges restaurant in New York City, won the award for Outstanding Pastry Chef from the James Beard Foundation in 2006. This is his first book.Roy Finamore, a publishing veteran of more than thirty years, has worked with many bestselling cookbook authors. He is the author of three books: One Potato, Two Potato; Tasty, which won a James Beard Foundation award; and Fish Without a Doubt.__