These candies were supposedly created in the Santa Clara convent in the state of Puebla and are sold everywhere in that state. They are long, cigar-shaped pieces of sugary sweet potato flavored with different fruits (mostly using flavorings and added colorings), but this is the basic recipe without any distractions. They are usually made with white sweet potato, but I prefer the flavor of the yellow or orange kind. Although it takes a couple of days to dry out, you can also serve it on a platter once it has cooled (and then you won’t even have to wait to eat it) the way many desserts were served in convents, and decorate it with some fresh pineapple on top.

　　

Ingredients

makes 10 to 15

　　1 large white or orange sweet potato

　　4 1/2 cups water

　　Juice of 1 lime

　　1 1/3 cups sugar

　　1/2 cup puréed fresh pineapple

　　

Glaze

1 1/2 cups sugar

　　1/4 cup water

　　

Step 1

Put the sweet potato, whole and unpeeled, in a pot and cover it with water. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat so it’s at a constant simmer, and cook until it is fork-tender (you can steam it if you prefer). Drain the water and set aside until cool enough to handle. Peel the skin and put the flesh in a container with 4 cups of the water and the lime juice. Let stand for 1 hour (you can skip this if you are serving it on a platter). Drain and purée until smooth, using a masher or food processor.

　　

Step 2

Put the sugar and the remaining 1/2 cup water in a heavy-bottomed pot and cook until the sugar melts and is very bubbly. Carefully add the sweet potato and the pineapple, stirring constantly, and cook until the mixture thickens and “grabs” the spoon, 30 to 45 minutes. You want to adjust the heat so it is always bubbling a little but not too much, because you don’t want to burn yourself.

　　

Step 3

Remove from the heat and beat lightly with a spoon, then let cool completely (you can transfer it to a serving platter if you aren’t making the candies). Place about 2 tablespoons of the mixture on a thin, damp cloth and roll up, forming a little log about 6 inches long. Repeat with the remaining mixture, rinsing the cloth often to prevent sticking but avoiding excess moisture. Place the logs on a parchment-lined baking sheet and let dry overnight. Once the tops are completely dry, turn the candies over and let dry overnight again.

　　

Step 4

TO MAKE THE GLAZE, combine the sugar and water in a small pot and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool, then brush both sides of the candies (you can also dip the candies using two forks). Return to the parchment paper and allow to set overnight once again, turning as necessary. Once they are completely dry wrap them individually in wax paper—if you’re not going to eat them right away.

　　Reprinted with permission from My Sweet Mexico: Recipes for Authentic Pastries, Breads, Candies, Beverages, and Frozen Treats © 2010 by Fany Gerson. Photographs by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.Buy the full book from Penguin Random House, Amazon, or Bookshop.