Adapted from Dead Horse Ranch

　　This unusual pâté is made with calves' testicles, also called calf fries. Despite the unique ingredient, bull butter has a milder flavor and more mousselike texture than traditional chicken liver pâté.

　　

Ingredients

Makes about 5 cups

　　1 pound calf fries, trimmed and peeled (see how to clean calf fries )

　　1/2 cup all-purpose flour

　　1/4 cup vegetable oil

　　1/2 cup finely chopped onion

　　1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled and chopped

　　1 garlic clove, chopped

　　4 hard-boiled large eggs, coarsely chopped

　　1 cup chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth

　　1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened

　　1/2 cup shelled natural pistachios, toasted

　　2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

　　1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

　　1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

　　2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

　　Pinch of cayenne

　　2 tablespoons Cognac

　　2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

　　Accompaniment: sliced baguette or crackers

　　

Step 1

Halve calf fries lengthwise with a sharp knife, then pat dry with paper towels. Season flour with salt and pepper and dredge fries to lightly coat, shaking off excess.

　　

Step 2

Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté fries in 2 batches until golden brown on both sides and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

　　

Step 3

Purée fries in a food processor with remaining ingredients until smooth and transfer to a serving bowl. Chill, covered, until firm, at least 4 hours. Bring to room temperature before serving.

　　Cooks' note:

　　Bull butter may be chilled up to 4 days.