A perhaps four-thousand-year-old, pre-Mosaic formula, the name of the dish is derived from its cooking vessel, caldaro—cauldron. A characteristic preparation of Gravina in Puglia, this is the ancient dish thought to be denounced in the Old Testament: “Thou shall not seethe a kid in his mother’s milk,” forming the Orthodox Hebrew proscription against dishes that combine meat with milk. This version sautés suckling kid or lamb until golden in fennel, parsley, and garlic-perfumed oil before its milk braising.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　1 1/2 tablespoons fennel seeds, crushed

　　2 fat cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

　　2/3 cup flat parsley leaves

　　1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　3 pounds suckling lamb or kid, cut from the legs into 3- to 4-inch pieces

　　Fine sea salt

　　3 cups whole milk

　　1 cup heavy cream

　　1 large branch of rosemary

　　Freshly ground white pepper

　　

Step 1

With a mezzaluna or a very sharp knife, mince the fennel, garlic, and parsley together to a fine paste.

　　

Step 2

In a large terra-cotta or enameled cast-iron casserole over a medium flame, warm the olive oil and melt the aromatic paste, taking care not to color it. Add the pieces of lamb—only those at a time that will fit without touching—browning them until they are crusted well on all sides. Remove them to a holding plate. Salt the lamb generously after it has been sealed. Pour 1/2 cup of the milk into the hot casserole, stirring and scraping at the residue over a lively flame for a minute or two before adding the remaining milk, the cream, the branch of rosemary, and the seared lamb. Over the gentlest flame, bring the mixture to a low simmer, cover the casserole tightly, and permit the lamb to cook ever so slowly for an hour or until the meat is barely melting into its milky juices.

　　

Step 3

With a slotted spoon, remove the lamb to a deep bowl, covering it loosely while you strain the pan juices, pressing hard to get all the liquid. Rinse the cooking vessel, return the juices to it, and, over a lively flame, reduce the sauce for 3 minutes. Taste the sauce, adjusting it with a little sea salt, should you wish, and generous grindings of white pepper. Reacquaint the lamb with its sauce, immersing it well and permitting it to warm through over a low flame.

　　

Step 4

Carry the casserole to the table, serving the lamb, its juices, chunks of bread, and a good red wine with a salad of bitter greens afterward.

　　A Taste of Southern Italy