Early January 2008 and I am having my annual tidy up of the pantry. The “lentil shuffle” as I call it, as that is basically what the job entails. Sorting out the pantry always results in my making something bean or lentil oriented. I think it must remind me of just how many I have. What follows is a rather hot bean curry. You could cool its ardor by skipping a chile or two. The greens offer a hit of cool freshness on top of the substantial and deeply spiced beans. A speedier version, suitable for a midweek supper, can be made with canned beans. There is no real reason why you shouldn’t use any dried or canned beans you wish here. Chickpeas will work well too. If I do decide to open a can instead, then I use three 14-ounce (400g) cans.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 4 to 6

　　dried haricot beans – 1 pound (500g)

　　onions – 2 medium

　　vegetable or peanut oil – 2 tablespoons

　　garlic – 3 cloves

　　green cardamom pods – 8

　　coriander seeds – 2 teaspoons

　　mustard seeds – a teaspoon

　　cumin seeds – a teaspoon

　　ground turmeric – 2 teaspoons

　　chiles – 3 small, hot

　　chopped plum tomatoes – two 14-ounce (400g) cans

　　a pinch of sugar

　　coconut milk – 1 cup (250ml)

　　fresh cilantro – a large handful

　　a lime, maybe 2

　　

For the Greens

leafy soft green cabbage, such as spring greens–a good handful or more per person

　　

Step 1

Soak the dried beans in cold water overnight. The next day, boil the beans until tender in deep unsalted water. Drain and set aside. (If you are using canned beans, rinse them under cold running water, then set aside.)

　　

Step 2

Peel the onions, cut them in half and slice them thinly. Add them to the oil in a large, deep pan and let them soften, coloring lightly, over moderate heat. This often takes longer than you might imagine, a good fifteen minutes at least. Peel and chop the garlic and add to the onions.

　　

Step 3

Crack the cardamom pods open and extract the tiny seeds. Crush these coarsely, using a pestle and mortar or a very heavy rolling pin, then stir them into the softening onions. Crush the coriander seeds and then the mustard, and add them to the onions with the whole cumin seeds, ground turmeric, a generous seasoning of salt, and black pepper. Cook, stirring regularly, for at least five minutes, so that the spices toast in the heat.

　　

Step 4

Meanwhile, seed and finely chop the chiles and add, with the chopped tomatoes, 1 3/4 cups (400ml) of water and a pinch of sugar, followed by the cooked beans. Simmer gently over low heat, with the occasional stir, partially covered with a lid, for about thirty-five to forty minutes.

　　

Step 5

Mix the coconut milk into the sauce, simmer for a further five minutes, then add the cilantro leaves and the lime juice. When the curry is almost ready, make a tight fist of the greens and shred them quite finely. Steam or blanch briefly, then add to the curry.

　　Tender