Because cool-season crops such as cabbage and cauliflower are difficult to grow in Vietnam, they enjoy a special status. In fact, my dad remembers how his mother carefully tended the cabbage heads in the family garden, covering each one with a cooking pot to encourage the leaves to curl. When we came to the States and found cabbage so readily available, my mother began fixing this easy stir-fry regularly for our weeknight suppers. I have since followed suit, and also sometimes serve it as a simple lunch with rice. The naturally sweet and spicy cabbage ribbons are enriched by a coating of egg, while a final splash of fish sauce adds a nutty, briny flavor.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 with 2 or 3 other dishes

　　2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil

　　2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

　　1/2 head green cabbage, cored and sliced into 1/4-inch-wide ribbons (4 cups packed)

　　1 to 2 tablespoons water

　　2 teaspoons fish sauce

　　1 egg, beaten

　　Black pepper

　　

Step 1

In a wok or large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the garlic and stir-fry for about 15 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the cabbage and stir-fry for about 2 minutes, or until heated through and glistening. Splash in 1 tablespoon of the water to facilitate cooking and prevent browning. Continue stir-frying, adding the remaining 1 tablespoon water if the cabbage threatens to scorch.

　　

Step 2

After 2 to 3 minutes, when the cabbage has softened but is still crisp tender, splash in the fish sauce, pour in the egg, and stir-fry briefly to distribute the egg evenly. Before the egg firmly sets—you want a slightly custardy texture—remove from the heat. Transfer the cabbage to a plate and top with a generous amount of pepper for some spicy heat. Serve immediately.

　　Reprinted with permission from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Copyright © 2006.  Photographs by Leigh Beisch. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.