Turnips are related to arugula and radishes. They share a little of their nutty heat, but they are sweeter. They come in many colors: the most common are the purple-topped white variety and the all-white Tokyo turnip. Sautéed or steamed, turnip tops make tasty greens, too, and in fact some varieties are grown only for their greens. Turnips can be found year-round but are sweetest and most tender when they are freshly harvested. Early spring and fall is the time to look for small, tender turnips with their greens still attached. These can be cooked whole, and they oft en don’t need to be peeled. As the turnips mature, their skin becomes thicker and tougher and the flavor more pungent. Hot weather makes turnips tough and bitter. Look for smooth-skinned, bright, shiny, firm turnips with fresh greens. The tiniest turnips can be cooked with their greens still attached and need no more preparation than a thorough washing. The greens should be cut off of larger turnips, but you can leave an inch or so of stem for color. Taste to decide if the skin is tender enough to leave in place. Large turnips should be peeled and trimmed completely; peel deeply, removing some flesh along with the skin. Rutabagas belong to another species, a cross between the turnip and cabbage. Also known as swedes, they resemble large yellow turnips with purplish tops. They are a little starchier than turnips, but they develop a good sweet flavor after the cold has set in. They are prepared and cooked like large turnips.

Ingredients

　　Turnips have quite a bit of internal moisture and can be cooked without any water at all. This recipe works well with large or small turnips. Peel the turnips if they need it and cut them into medium pieces. Smaller turnips can be left whole or just cut in half. Put them in a heavy pan with a big pinch of salt and a large pat of butter. Cover and cook the turnips until tender over medium heat, stirring every now and then. If the pan starts to brown, turn down the heat. Serve them as is, or mash them with a touch of fresh butter. Turnips can also be sliced and cooked uncovered over higher heat to brown them on purpose; they are delicious caramelized like this. Keep an eye on them to make sure that they don’t brown so much that the flavor becomes bitter.

　　The Art of Simple Food