Active Time

　　1 hr

　　Total Time

　　1 hr

　　Almost every culture has an abiding, elemental hunger for greens, and in the American South, it's common to simmer a variety of them. Hopkins cooks his relatively quickly in a satiny béchamel. The nutty sweetness of the sauce rounds out the natural bitterness of the greens, thus lifting them into the realm of the spectacular. Think of this as a rough-around-the-edges version of creamed spinach, one with real backbone.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 6 (side dish) servings

　　3/4 stick unsalted butter, divided

　　2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

　　2 cups whole milk

　　2 tablespoons minced shallot

　　1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf

　　6 black peppercorns

　　3 1/2 pounds mixed winter greens such as collards, mustard greens, and kale

　　6 ounces slab bacon, any rind discarded and bacon cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch sticks (lardons)

　　1 cup finely chopped onion

　　1/2 cup heavy cream

　　2 garlic cloves, minced

　　1 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes

　　1 tablespoon cider vinegar, or to taste

　　

Step 1

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, then add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

　　

Step 2

Add milk in a stream, whisking, then add shallot, bay leaf, and peppercorns and bring to a boil, whisking. Simmer, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes. Strain béchamel sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids, and cover surface with parchment paper.

　　

Step 3

Discard stems and center ribs from greens, then coarsely chop leaves.

　　

Step 4

Cook lardons in a wide 6- to 8-quart heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown but not crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain, then pour off fat from pot and wipe clean.

　　

Step 5

Heat remaining 1/2 stick butter in pot over medium-low heat until browned and fragrant, about 2 minutes, then cook onion, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes.

　　

Step 6

Increase heat to medium-high, then stir in greens, 1 handful at a time, letting each handful wilt before adding next. Add béchamel, cream, garlic, red-pepper flakes, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and boil, uncovered, stirring, until sauce coats greens and greens are tender, about 10 minutes.

　　

Step 7

Stir in lardons, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste.

　　Cooks' notes:

　　·Béchamel sauce can be made 1 day ahead and chilled, its surface covered with parchment. Stir before using.

　　·Greens can be chopped 1 day ahead and chilled in a large sealed bag.