In its usual state—with cream and fat in a stable suspension—butter has a creamy taste. But this changes dramatically when it is heated quickly and starts to brown. The cream solids and fat separate; the particles caramelize and take on a nutty flavor as they toast. I like butter both ways, and I use either as a base for pasta sauce. Try making brown-butter sauces with other herbs and seasonings to use with the pastas suggested on the preceding page.

　　

Ingredients

for 1 pound of pasta

　　

Step 1

In a big skillet, melt a stick of butter over medium heat, swirling the pan so it starts to sizzle evenly.

　　

Step 2

Let the butter sizzle until it turns pale brown, lower the heat, and toss in 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary needles and a twist of freshly ground black pepper. Shake the pan and toast the rosemary for 1/2minute.

　　

Step 3

Ladle in 1/2 cup of pasta-cooking water and simmer for a couple of minutes, until the sauce is reduced.

　　

Step 4

Finish sauce with cooked pasta as usual, tossing and cooking together over low heat (for details, see page 105). Off the heat, toss pasta with 1 cup freshly grated cheese.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.