Red mullet is so highly rated it is called Sultan Ibrahim in the Arab world. In Turkey it is called barbunya. In this dish, which is simple to make and beautiful to offer, grape leaves keep the fish moist and impart a delicate flavor. You may use fresh or preserved leaves. If the grape leaves are fresh, scald them in boiling water for a moment or two, until they flop, then dip them quickly in cold water so as to preserve their color. If they are preserved in brine, soak them in hot water for 1/2 hour to remove the salt, changing the water once, then rinse them.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　6 small red mullet, each weighing about 8 ounces

　　12 grape leaves

　　Extra-virgin olive oil

　　Salt

　　1 1/2 lemons, cut in wedges

　　

Step 1

Ask the fishmonger to clean and scale the fish and to keep the heads on and give you the livers (they are a delicacy you can sauté and eat while you’re cooking).

　　

Step 2

Place 2 grape leaves shiny side down on a plate so that together they are large enough to wrap up a fish. Brush with oil. Place a fish across the leaves, and sprinkle lightly with salt. Roll up into a parcel, folding down the top leaf so that the head sticks out. Repeat with the remaining fish and leaves.

　　

Step 3

Cook on a barbecue or under the broiler for about 4–5 minutes on each side.

　　

Step 4

Serve with lemon wedges.

　　

Variations

Step 5

Stuff the cavities with 4 crushed garlic cloves mixed with 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley.

　　

Step 6

Sardines can be used instead of red mullet.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf