Straciatella are little rags or strings, which is what the eggs look like when they are cooked. It is these gentle shreds that make this soup so comforting. The essentials of this soup are the stock, or brodo, the eggs, and the cheese. The spinach or other greens are variants. Cooked peas can be used instead of the greens and Garlic Broth can be substituted for the brodo.

　　The technique in this recipe is stolen, with gratitude, from Pellegrino Artusi, a brilliant cook and gastronome who wrote The Art of Eating Well.

　　Use a pot that is large enough to hold the colander over the stock without actually touching it, so that the egg can flow freely into the soup to form the strings.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 4 cups (1 liter) without spinach, 5 cups (1.25 liters) with; 4 first-course servings

　　2 eggs

　　4 teaspoons finely grated Parmesan cheese

　　a pinch of coarse salt, plus 1 1/2 teaspoons

　　a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

　　1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

　　4 (1 liter) cups chicken stock or beef stock or, in England, imported beef or meat stock [or Garlic Broth for a vegetarian soup]

　　1 pound (450 g) spinach or Swiss chard, stemmed and leaves cut across into narrow strips, optional

　　freshly ground black pepper, to taste

　　

Step 1

In a small bowl, stir together the eggs, cheese, pinch of salt, the nutmeg, and flour — try not to get the eggs at all frothy.

　　

Step 2

In a medium saucepan, bring the stock to a boil. Place a colander with widely spaced holes over the boiling stock. Pour the egg mixture through the colander. Remove the colander and stir the soup once or twice. Remove from the heat or, if using the greens, lower the heat and stir them in just to heat through. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

　　Reprinted with permission from Soup: A Way of Life by Barbara Kafka. © 1998 Artisan