Veal cheeks make the most delicate braise. Using a combination of water and wine for the braising liquid allows the sweet, subtle taste of the veal to really shine through. As a side, you need nothing more than the spring’s first ramps and some gorgeous porcini, kissed by the grill. Some years, it just so happens that the ramp season runs long, or perhaps the porcini season starts early, or both. When the two magically coincide, some amazing things happen. Using foil as insulation for the delicate ramp tops gives the vegetables a simple char on the grill. The veal needs time to become fork-tender, a few hours in all, so plan accordingly.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　2 pounds trimmed veal cheeks, 8 pieces in all (trimmed of any excess fat and sinew)

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

　　1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped

　　4 cloves garlic, smashed

　　1 onion, chopped

　　2 cups white wine

　　2 cups water

　　2 fresh bay leaves

　　Grilled Ramps and Porcini, for accompaniment (recipe follows)

　　

Grilled Ramps and Porcini

20 to 24 ramps, rinsed and trimmed

　　4 porcini mushrooms, smaller than a tennis ball, bigger than a golf ball, wiped clean and halved lengthwise

　　Extra-virgin olive oil, for grilling and drizzling

　　Kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

　　

Step 2

Season the cheeks liberally with salt and pepper on both sides. Using 2 sauté pans to avoid crowding, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in each pan over high heat. Sear the veal cheeks for 2 to 3 minutes per side, or until caramelized.

　　

Step 3

Transfer to a braising dish. Divide the carrots, garlic, and onion between the pans and sauté just until they get a hint of color, 2 to 3 minutes. Deglaze the pans with the wine and empty the vegetables and the wine into the braising dish with the meat. Add the water and bay leaves. Cover the dish with foil or a heavy, tight-fitting lid and braise for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, or until meltingly tender.

　　

Step 4

Transfer the veal cheeks to a plate and strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a brisk simmer. Reduce the braising liquid until it becomes a syrupy glaze and measures 1/2 cup. Add the veal cheeks to the pan and warm through in the liquid. Place 2 cheeks on each of 4 plates and spoon the remaining glaze over the top. Serve with the Grilled Ramps and Porcini.

　　

Grilled Ramps and Porcini

Step 5

Preheat the grill on high or light a hot charcoal fire. Rub the ramps and mushrooms with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Lay a piece of foil down on half of the grill. Place the ramps on the grill with the tops resting on top of the foil, the bulbs on the grate. Place the mushrooms, cut-side down, directly on the grill. Grill, turning frequently, until tender and browned in spots. Drizzle with olive oil and serve with the veal cheeks.

　　Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen